Seven Ways to Get Your Crojo Back

7 Ways I Get My Crojo Back - Megmade with Love

You’ve heard of it, right? Crojo.. a funny little take on the word mojo, but with a crochet twist. It’s when you’ve lost your desire to pick up a hook and play with your yarn, it’s just meh… not there for ya. Whether it be because you’ve had too many failed attempts at the sweater you’re working on (um ya, I feel ya on that one 😒) or because you’ve had crochet overload— losing your crojo can really leave you feeling crummy and uninspired. And then you end up getting frustrated with yourself because you’re not getting anything done because you simply don’t feel like it! It can be a vicious cycle.

7 ways to get your crojo back - Megmade with Love

Ugh. I totally get this feeling. I struggle with this from time to time and I know how sucky it is. I took a step back recently when assessing the thought of losing my crojo, I’ve realized a common theme when it came to the reasons: it’s almost always because I’ve had “too much” of something. I’ve been crocheting too much, failing and having to frog a pattern too much, or looking for inspiration too much. Having realized this, it’s sort of nice to be able to stop the “too much” before it ends in a lost crojo. But sometimes it’s just not controlled, and you end up uninterested. Once I’ve found myself in this spot, I’ve realized there are a few things I can do to get my crochet loins goin’ (ew, did I just say that?? lol!) I’m listing them in order of importance for me, the first one being the most effective.

1) Take a break!

Yep, this one’s my fave. It’s without a doubt the first thing I do if I’m just not really “feeling it”, and honestly taking a break is what usually works for me when getting back into the swing of crocheting. Sometimes we just need to step away for whatever reason, and a lot of the time, it’s because we’ve just had too much of something. Whether it’s crocheting in general, or even too many failed attempts… putting the hook and yarn away for awhile really can be the refresh you need to step back into it at a later time. I don’t necessarily have a magic amount of time that I take breaks for, because it’s always different. Sometimes I take the weekend off, or end up stopping for the night. I think it’s just important to be aware of the situation and how your feeling, then commit to stepping away for however long you decide.

2) Hop off social media

This one sort of goes hand in hand with the taking the break. I mean, you are taking a break.. from good ol’ social media. I’d be lying if I said this one wasn’t another favorite tool of mine to get my crojo back. I can be totally guilty of consuming too much content, and gathering up inspiration on Instagram and Pinterest— and you know what they say about too much of a good thing… And looking at it from a productivity standpoint, you’re not getting anything done when you’re endlessly scrolling. It’s best sometimes to actually log out, and get some work done, or log out for the sake of taking a break altogether.

3) Go somewhere that inspires you

This one really works for me. Usually when I take breaks I like to venture out to different stores or places that inspire me. I’m almost always inspired when I go to a craft show, and I think it’s because I get so inspired by other people’s creativity. I also like to go to antique shops, flea markets, craft stores, TARGET (hehe), or my fave home decor and clothing stores. I always go without expectations… just let it flow and enjoy the experience.

4) Get active, go outside, adventure

This one is definitely a staple for me in life but certainly applies to lost crojo. I find when I adventure outside and experience nature, things just… get better. I’m usually filled with gratitude, and marvel at what God has done in this world. It’s like your world expands when you go outside. Plus getting active releases those feel-good endorphins that’ll help your mood. Win win and win.

5) Simplify your project list/focus on one WIP

Sometimes you just need to simplify to get moving in the right direction. True for so many things in life, and this definitely applies to crochet. When you’ve got too much going on, it’s hard to focus, easy to get overwhelmed and causes delay. But when you put all your energy into one project, you get quicker results which leads to gratification of a completed project. And then you’re onto the next! I am very big on making it a habit to have only 1-2 projects going, because I know how easy it is to get sidetracked, lose momentum and eventually drop a project when I’ve got too many going.

6) Destash and organize yarn

Just like with #5, simplifying can be so helpful when it comes to your yarn stash. I know how it goes, you see the yarn…. you want the yarn… and you buy the yarn. haha I’m just as guilty as having way too much of it. But perhaps organizing and getting rid of some of your yarn could really help your situation. I think it’s good to go through every skein and ball you’ve got… feel them, imagine what you’d make with them and truly ask yourself if you really need it or is it unnecessarily taking up space in your home.

7) Do a different craft

Been wanting to upcycle an old piece of furniture for your home, but never seemed to have the time for it? Or maybe you’ve always wanted to try making pottery or weaving.. painting or bookbinding? Maybe putting up your current WIP for the weekend and tackling a different type of project is the answer you need. It might get the ball rolling for you creatively, and give you the gratification you need of accomplishing something beautiful. I personally love this technique!

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And those are my seven little tricks that help bring back that lovin’ crochet feeling you so desperately need in your life 😉. Do you use any of the ones I listed or have any others that are your go-tos? I’d love to hear, so comment below! It can be rough when you feel uninspired to crochet— (especially if it’s your business!) so hopefully you could take at least one of these tactics into practice and be on your way to more stitchin’.

Take care and happy hooking!
Meg

How to start crocheting again - Megmade with Love

The Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Cropped Sweater - Megmade with Love

***If you’d like the PDF version of this pattern, you can purchase it by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing, and without ads. For the free version, scroll down into the post.***

I am just pleased as punch to bring you the new free sweater pattern! The Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater certainly lives up to it’s name, as it’s made with the absolute softest yarn to grace this planet: Yarn Bee Cloud 9 Yarn. Ohhh, what a dream!

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I mean, you can see proof in photo above… it’s just one of the most lovely yarns I’ve worked with (and no, this isn’t a sponsored post!). It’s polyester, very lightweight-feeling and the feel is so buttery! The makeup of it is like a thin strand of thread with fluffy bursts coming out of it, if that makes sense whatsoever?? It’s perfect for garments :)

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Megmade with Love - Crochet Cropped Sweater

When it comes to the sweater itself, I love the cropped cut! And it pairs well with so many outfits… I thought it looked cool with some distressed shorts for a laid-back Spring look. But I also have dreams of wearing it with a floral maxi skirt or some high waisted black pants. Oooh don’t even get me started, mkkkk.

And if you’re not too big of a fan of cropped sweaters, it’s actually easily adjustable— so you can add the length you’d like.

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While this yarn truly is the star of the show when it comes to this sweater, I did find it a bit tricky at first to work with, just because it’s a bit hard to see the stitches. But fear not! I figured out some tricks on how to tackle this issue, and summed them up in the notes section of the pattern. I think figuring out how to work with it is absolutely worth it because the drape and feel of the yarn really just “makes” the sweater in my opinion.

Megmade with Love - Cropped Crochet Sweater Pattern
Megmade with Love

Without further ado, here’s the pattern for the Cloud Nine Cropped Sweater… a staple in your Spring wardrobe, no doubt! I hope you enjoy making this fun and unbelievably soft piece of clothing :)

***If you’d like the PDF version of this pattern, you can purchase it by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing, and without ads. For the free version, scroll down into the post.***

What you’ll need:

-category 3 (light) weight yarn (yardage for each size is found in the “notes” section), I used Yarn Bee Cloud 9 Yarn in color “Mushroom”. I highly suggest using this yarn or one similar in texture for this pattern.

-size g (4.25 mm) hook

-yarn needle

-stitch markers

-sewing pins (optional)

Gauge:

15 dc and 8 rows equals a four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, dc=double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), sl=slip, hdc=half double crochet, fpdc=front post double crochet, bpdc=back post double crochet, dc2tog=double crochet two together (decrease)

Notes:

*** Yarn Yardage per size:

Small (approx 38” bust) - 950-1000 yards
Medium (approx 40” bust) - 1000-1050 yards
Large (approx 42” bust) - 1050-1100 yards
XL (approx 44” bust) - 1100-1150 yards
2X (approx 48” bust) - 1200-1250 yards

-ch’s at beginning of rows and rounds do NOT count as sts

-I learned some little tricks while working with this yarn, which is so soft… and flowy… and awesome, yet very hard to distinguish stitches with. I found out that good lighting while working with it made all the difference. Also working into the initial chains was the hardest part for me, so I took it super slow. I usually just went by feel when it came to where to put the next stitch, but if I ever had doubt, I held it up to the light to see better.

-sweater is worked up in a front and back body panel, and the sleeves and collar are crocheted onto the body once it’s sewn. Both front and back panels are worked from the bottom-up.

-you could easily add rows to the body to make this sweater fit longer— just add them before you begin to work the neck hole on the front panel. When sewing the panels, just add the amount of rows to row 22 to figure out what row to sew up to on each side.

-size worn in photos is small

Pattern:

***Back Panel :

Formated S (M, L, XL, 2X)

Row 1) ch 77 (81, 85, 89, 97), dc in 3rd ch from hook and across, I found it easier to work dc’s into BLO of ch’s (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, fpdc, [bpdc, fpdc] across row— work hdc in last st (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, bpdc, [fpdc, bpdc] across row— work hdc in last st (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

Row 4) repeat row 2

Row 5) repeat row 3

Row 6) ch 2, turn, dc across row (75, 79, 83, 87, 95 total sts)

——-FOR SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM:

Rows 7-38) repeat row 6

-finish off

——-FOR SIZES LARGE AND XLARGE:

Rows 7-40) repeat row 6

-finish off

——-FOR SIZES 2X:

Rows 7-42) repeat row 6

-finish off

***Front Panel:

——--SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM, formatted S (M) :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-32) ch 2, turn, dc across row (75, 79 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 33) ch 2, turn, work 27 (28) dc, sc, sl st in next 19 (21) sts, sc, dc in last 27 (28) sts (75, 79 total sts)

Row 34) ch 2, turn, work 26 (27) dc, sc in next st (27, 28 total sts)

Row 35) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 25 (26) sts (26, 27 total sts)

Row 36) ch 2, turn, work 25 (26) dc, sc in last st (26, 27 total sts)

Row 37) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 24 (25) sts (25, 26 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 24 (25) dc, sc in last st (25, 26 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 33. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 34-38 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

——-SIZES LARGE & XLARGE, formatted L (XL) :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-34) ch 2, turn, dc across row (83, 87 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 35) ch 2, turn, work 29 (30) dc, sc, sl st in next 23 (25) sts, sc, dc in last 29 (30) sts (83, 87 total sts)

Row 36) ch 2, turn, work 28 (29) dc, sc in next st (29, 30 total sts)

Row 37) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 27 (28) sts (28, 29 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 27 (28) dc, sc in last st (28, 29 total sts)

Row 39) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 26 (27) sts (27, 28 total sts)

Row 40) ch 2, turn, work 26 (27) dc, sc in last st (27, 28 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 35. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 36-40 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

——SIZE 2X :

Rows 1-5) repeat instructions from back panel

Rows 6-36) ch 2, turn, dc across row (95 total sts)

(now working one side of the neck hole)

Row 37) ch 2, turn, work 32 dc, sc, sl st in next 29 sts, sc, dc in last 32 sts (95 total sts)

Row 38) ch 2, turn, work 31 dc, sc in next st (32 total sts)

Row 39) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 30 sts (31 total sts)

Row 40) ch 2, turn, work 30 dc, sc in last st (31 total sts)

Row 41) turn- do not ch, sl st into 1st st (does not count as st), sc, dc in last 29 sts (30 total sts)

Row 42) ch 2, turn, work 29 dc, sc in last st (30 total sts)

finish off, leave long tail to sew the top seam

(now working on the opposite side of the top of the front panel, to complete the other side of the neck hole, you will draw up your yarn in the very last st of row 37. View “photo A” below for assistance.)

Once yarn is drawn up, you will repeat rows 38-42 to complete the other side of the neck hole. Then finish off and leave long tail to sew up top seam.

Megmade with Love
Megmade with Love

After both panels are completed, you’re ready to sew the body together. Place your front panel on top of the back panel, like shown in photo above. It doesn’t matter which sides are on the inside because they look the same at this point.

Then you will want to mark where you will sew up to on the sides of both panels with a stitch marker— you will be sewing up to row 22 (this goes for all sizes). It is important your rows line up on the front and back panels so you will have the exact amount of rows left for the sleeve hole—it also may help to use sewing pins to keep panels secure and in place.

for SIZES SMALL & MEDIUM there will be 16 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole
for SIZES LARGE & XLARGE there will be 18 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole
for SIZE 2X there will be 20 rows on both the front and back panel not sewn for the sleeve hole

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Using yarn needle and long piece of yarn, sew up on each of the sides of the front and back panel through row 22. I used the whip stitch along the very outer edge of both pieces, and made sure to have a pretty loose tension when sewing.

Then you will sew the tops of your panels together using the same loose whip stitch. Sew starting on the outside then move in, and stop when the neck hole forms on the front panel.

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After the two panels are sewn along the top and sides, you will begin on the sleeves. Begin by drawing up your yarn in the bottom of one of the sleeve holes AKA the armpit (I found it didn’t make any difference if you flipped the sweater right side out when working the sleeves— because this yarn disguises rows and rounds well). ch 2, then you will begin working dc’s into the very edge of each row of your sleeve hole. You will work a sequence of [2dc, dc] all the way around the sleeve hole, then join to 1st dc with sl st. This completes the first round of the sleeve.

***Total SLEEVE sts worked into sleeve hole for each size:

SMALL & MEDIUM: 48 total sts (24 on each side)
LARGE & XLARGE: 54 total sts (27 on each side)
2X: 60 total sts (30 on each side)

Remainder of sleeve:

formatted (S, M, L, XL, 2X)

Rounds 2- 37) ch 2, dc around, join to 1st dc with sl st (48, 48, 54, 54, 60 total sts)

Round 38) ch 2, dc2tog around, join to 1st st with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 39) ch 2, dc around, join to 1st dc with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 40) ch 1, [fpdc, bpdc] around, join to 1st st with sl st (24, 24, 27, 27, 30 total sts)

Round 41) repeat row 40

finish off

***repeat instructions for other sleeve

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You will finish up your sweater by crocheting around the neck hole to create the collar. Draw up your yarn in the back corner of the neck hole and ch 1. Work hdc’s around the very edge of the entire neck hole, then join to first hdc with sl st.

Rounds 2-3 of neck hole) ch 1, [fpdc, bpdc] around, join to 1st st with sl st

After the neck hole is finished, and all ends woven are in, you’re ready to slip on the loveliest sweater ever! And even better that YOU made it?!

Megmade with Love - Crochet Cropped Sweater Pattern

I hope this pattern/sweater brings value to your life! It’s so fun making the stuff we wear… or even making something for someone else— it’s just so special. Now go give someone a hug with your cuddly new sweater!! Teehee.

Take care and happy hooking,
Meg

Cropped Crochet Sweater Free Pattern - Megmade with Love