Easy Striped Crochet Sweater - Free Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

There’s a new sweater here! I’m happy to share this easy striped cardigan, that’s super comfy and laid back—just how I like ‘em. 😊

I designed this sweater to be as easy as possible. If you can crochet a box you can crochet this sweater. Yep, no increasing or decreasing. The body has nearly zero seaming to do, just the top shoulders.

It’s worked from the bottom-up, then you add on a couple side panels and one middle back panel. The sleeves are worked in the round, turning after every round.

The pattern is available below, along with a full video tutorial. It’s the perfect beginner sweater... I actually really enjoyed making it because it was one of those mindless projects you could work on while watching a show or video and not have to keep looking back at the pattern, due to the simplicity!

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Full Video Tutorial:

Easy Striped Sweater

What you’ll need:

-size 5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

-category 4 worsted weight yarn in two colors. I used Yarn Bee Through Thick and Thin yarn—yardage required is in sizing section. If using a substitute, a yarn with varying thickness like the one I used would be ideal.

-large tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:

16 hdc by 13 rows equals a 4 inch square

Sizing and Yardage:

please note that the sweater is designed a bit oversized and can stretch with wear

***Size XSmall***
Bust = 43” Length = 32”
Approximately 1,720 yards of yarn

***Small/Medium***
Bust = 45” Length = 33”
Approximately 1,864 yards of yarn

***Large/XLarge***
Bust = 47” Length = 34”
Approximately 2,010 yards of yarn

***Plus***
Bust = 49” Length = 35”
Approximately 2,160 yards of yarn

Notes:

-chains at beginning of rows do not count as stitches

-you can customize the length by adding or taking away rows before you begin working on the top panels

-it may be helpful to use stitch markers when working the top panels, to make it easier for you to distinguish where each panel goes, just count off each of the panel’s st count on row 80, then place markers

-when working the sleeves and sleeve ribbing be sure to keep an eye on stitch count, as it is easy to drop or add stitches

-below is a rough sketch of how the sweater is worked up. You will start at the bottom and work up, then begin working on top of the bottom portion in 3 sections—called the top side panels and top middle panel.

Once top panels are done, you will fold the sides over and sew the tops together shown below. This will make arm holes for the sleeves. Then the sleeves will be worked in the round, turning after every round.

-here's how the the sizing will be formatted for the pattern when instructions for the different sizes are grouped together: XS, S/M, L/XL, PLUS

-the top panel rows will be formatted: 1st top side panel= “a”, top middle panel = “b”, 2nd top side panel = “c”

Abbreviations:

sl=slip, ch(‘s)=chain(s), st(s)=stitch(es), hdc=half double crochet, sc=single crochet, prev=previous

Pattern:

/// Bottom Portion of the Sweater Body ///

Row 1) * using first color * ch [153 162, 171, 180], hdc in 3rd ch from hook and across (151, 160, 169, 178 total sts)

Rows 2-80) ch 2, turn, hdc across row (151, 160, 169, 178 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color *

///1st Top Side Panel (a)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 32 (32 total sts)

Rows 82a-106a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (32 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 35 (32 total sts)

Rows 82a-108a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (35 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 38 (38 total sts)

Rows 82a-110a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (38 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81a) ch 2, turn, hdc 41 (41 total sts)

Rows 82a-112a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (41 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

///Top Middle Panel (b)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 86 more hdc (87 total sts)

Rows 82b-106a) ch 2, turn, hdc across (87 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 89 more hdc (90 total sts)

Rows 82b-108b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (90 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 92 more hdc (93 total sts)

Rows 82b-110b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (93 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81b) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, then 95 more hdc (96 total sts)

Rows 82b-112b) ch 2, turn, hdc across (96 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

///2nd Top Side Panel (c)///

***Size XSmall***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the top middle panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (32 total sts)

Rows 82c-106c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (32 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 10 rows *

finish off

***Size Small/Medium***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (35 total sts)

Rows 82c-108c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (35 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 12 rows

finish off

***Size Large/XLarge***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (38 total sts)

Rows 82c-110c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (38 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color… last stripe will only have 14 rows

finish off

***Size Plus***

Row 81c) draw up yarn in st NEXT to the bottom of the first top side panel (in photo above) ch 3, tug on yarn end to secure, hdc in same st that you drew up yarn, and across to the end of row (41 total sts)

Rows 82c-112c) ch 2, turn, hdc across (41 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

finish off

photo shows all 3 top panels completed

/// Seaming the Top Shoulders ///

To seam the tops of the sweater you will fold over both top side panels onto the top middle panel, lining up the top and outside edges.

Then you will sew along the very tops of both sides, creating the shoulder seams. You can see in the photo above I showed where to sew where the dotted lines are. You can pin the panels together to keep them from shifting.

I sewed along the very top edge of the panels with yarn and large needle inserting my needle from the back, pulling through yarn and inserting needle again through the back side, which made the seam go over the top of the edges. Make sure not to pull too tightly on the yarn so the project doesn’t bunch. Repeat for both sides.

///Sleeves///

Round 1) draw up yarn in armpit of sleeve hole, the little gap in between the front and back top panels (shown in photo above), ch 3, and tug on yarn tail to secure (continued below)

work one hdc into the edge of every row from the top panels (in photo above, arrows show where you will work each hdc for the sleeve onto the very edge of each row of the top panels) all the way around your sleeve hole (52, 56, 60, 64 total sts)

Rounds 2-48) ch 2, flip work (you will now be working the round the opposite way), hdc around (52, 56, 60, 64 total sts) * after 16 rows, change to next color

///Sleeve Ribbing///

Step 1) for ribbing switch to next color, ch 13, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, and across remaining chains (12 total sts)

Step 2) next, you will sl st into next 3 sts of the sleeve end (this connects ribbing to sleeve), shown in photo above.

Step 3) ch 1, turn, for first st of next row of ribbing you will insert hook into 2nd sl st from hook AND the 1st sc (shown in photo above) and work a sc, then work sc into remaining sts (12 total sts)

Step 4) ch 1, turn, sc across row (12 total sts) then sl st into the next 3 sts of the sleeve end

Repeat steps 3-4 around the sleeve end, until you get to the last rows, sl st into remaining sts of sleeve, ch 1, turn, sc across row ch 1, turn, and pinch two ends of sleeve ribbing together (shown in photo above) and slip stitch the ends together inserting hook into both edges. Finish off after ribbing is closed up.

Weave in ends, and you’re done with a super cute striped sweater!

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Boy oh boy, have I got a cute new pattern to share with you today… making a sweater for my son has been a goal of mine for quite some time, but I just hadn’t got the chance to do it. Finally the stars aligned and his sweater is complete! And I’ve written a detailed pattern so you could make one for the little in your life!

Toddler Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

I’ve written the pattern for sizes 2T, 3T and 4T. And I’m thinking if you size up one for your kiddo, you’d get lots of extra wear out of it.. ya know since they grow like weeds.

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

I love the little elements of this sweater that make it unique, mostly the fun button feature on the top that closes with little i-cords. I kinda wish I had one in my size… hmmm……

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

There’s quite a bit of assembly instructions involved, as there are multiple pieces that make up the sweater, but I’ve got your back with TONS of photos for assistance. Since there’s so many details, I’d rate this sweater as more of an “intermediate” pattern rather than beginner.

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

I used Hobby Lobby’s Denim in Color yarn, which was perfect for a sweater in my opinion, because it’s a 50/50 blend of acrylic and cotton. It’s a bit on the thicker side for a worsted (4) weight yarn, so I think you could get away with using a bulky (5) weight yarn, just checking gauge for accuracy.

Toddler Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love

I’m very happy/proud to have this sweater out in the world, and I think Sawyer looks so freakin’ cute in it. If you end up making the sweater, I hope you enjoy!

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

What you’ll need:

-category 4 (worsted) weight yarn, I used Yarn Bee Denim in Color in the color “Denim”, see notes for yardage and other info
-7mm crochet hook
-3 one-inch buttons
-yarn needle
-sewing pins

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, sl=slip, BLO=back loop only, st(s)=stitch(es) slst2tog= slip stitch two together

Gauge:

12 hdc by 9 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:

———SIZING & YARDAGE———

2T:
11.5” wide, 13.5“ long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 425 yards of yarn

3T: 12.5” wide, 14.5” long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 450 yards of yarn

4T: 13.5” wide, 15.5” long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 475 yards of yarn

-------------------------------------------

-ch at the beginning of each row do not count as stitches

-the yarn I used seemed to be a bit bulkier than other 4 weight yarns I’ve worked with before, I say that because you could probably get away with using a bulky (5) weight yarn, just be sure to check gauge!

-when working the sl st rows, I made sure to have a loose hand so it wouldn’t be too difficult to insert the hook back into the sts on the way back. I did the sl st in two motions: draw yarn through, and pull it a bit, then pull through loop. I found this made it not so tight.

-sweater is made up of multiple pieces: front and back panel, middle neck piece, little i-cords for joining to buttons, sleeves, and ribbing for the bottom of the sweater & sleeves as well as ribbing for the neck top. Below you can see the different pieces.

Crochet Toddler Sweater - Megmade with Love

Pattern:

-—---Back Panel--—--
(worked bottom-up)

***Size 2T
Row 1) ch 35, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (34 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (34 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (34 total sts)
Rows 4-37) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

***Size 3T
Row 1) ch 39, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (38 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (38 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (38 total sts)
Rows 4-41) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

***Size 4T
Row 1) ch 43, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (42 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (42 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (42 total sts)
Rows 4-45) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

--—--Front Panel—----
(worked bottom-up)

***Size 2T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 26, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 27) ch 1, turn, hdc in 14 sts (14 total sts)
Row 28) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (14 total sts)
Row 29) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (14 total sts)
Rows 30-37) repeat rows 28 & 29 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 27 (now considered row 27b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see “photo A” below for assistance)

Row 27b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (14 total sts)
Row 28b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (14 total sts)
Row 29b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (14 total sts)
Rows 30b-37b) repeat rows 28b & 29b consecutively
finish off

***Size 3T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 30, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 31) ch 1, turn, hdc in 16 sts (16 total sts)
Row 32) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (16 total sts)
Row 33) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
Rows 34-41) repeat rows 32 & 33 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 31 (now considered row 31b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see“photo A” below for assistance)
Row 31b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (16 total sts)
Row 32b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (16 total sts)
Row 33b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
Rows 34b-41b) repeat rows 32b & 33b consecutively
finish off

***Size 4T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 34, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 35) ch 1, turn, hdc in 18 sts (18 total sts)
Row 36) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (18 total sts)
Row 37) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
Rows 38-45) repeat rows 32 & 33 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 35 (now considered row 35b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see “photo A” below for assistance)

Row 35b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (18 total sts)
Row 36b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (18 total sts)
Row 37b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
Rows 38b-45b) repeat rows 36b & 37b consecutively
finish off

PHOTO A

PHOTO A

-—---Middle Neck Piece -—---
(worked side to side)

***All sizes
Row 1) ch 39, sl st in BLO of 2nd ch from hook and in BLO of all ch’s across (38 total sts)
Rows 2-10--or until it fits into gap between two top sides of front panel) ch 1, sl st in BLO across row (38 total sts)
finish off

-—---Sleeves (make 2) -—---
(worked top-down)

***Size 2T
Row 1) ch 29, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (28 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (28 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (26 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (26 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (26 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (26 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (24 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (20 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (18 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (18 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (16 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
finish off

***Size 3T
Row 1) ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (30 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (30 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (28 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (28 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (26 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (26 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (24 total sts) Rows
13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (20 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (18 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
finish off

***Size 4T
Row 1) ch 33, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (32 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (32 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (32 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (30 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (30 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (28 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (28 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (26 total sts)
Rows 13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (26 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (24 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (20 total sts)
finish off

-—---Ribbing —----

***All sizes
Row 1) ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5 total sts)
Rows 2-??) ch 1, turn hdc in BLO across row (5 total sts)

you will need to make four pieces of ribbing (you can see visual in notes):

1. one spanning the width of both front and back panels
2-3. two spanning the width of the bottom of each sleeve
4. one neck ribbing that is 11 inches long

-—---I-Cord Button Closures —----

***All sizes
You will make 3 crochet i-cords, each approximately 6 inches in length.

Assembly:

Assembly

To begin assembly, you will grab your front panel and your middle neck piece. Place the front panel right side down, and place the folded middle neck piece in the little slot, folded side on the bottom, like shown in the photo above.

assembly

Next, you will pin the middle neck piece onto the front panel. The back of the middle neck piece connects to the left side of the front panel and the top side connects to the right side of the front panel, shown in photo above. The middle neck piece will stick out above the top of the front panel about 1.5”.

assembly

After it is pinned, you will sew using yarn needle and long strand of yarn. Use a loose-handed whip stitch along the right side of the middle neck piece, down until you reach the bottom folded part.

assembly

Then make your way across the bottom folded part of the middle neck piece, sewing it to the front panel.

assembly

Lift up the middle neck piece to sew the under side to the left side of the front panel, all the way up.

assembly

Next up you will attach the top neck ribbing to both the front and back panels and middle neck piece. Lay your back panel down, right side up then front panel on top of it, right side down.

assembly

First you will pin the neck ribbing to the top of the middle neck piece that extends over the top of the front panel.

assembly

Then wrap the neck ribbing around to pin the other short end to the under side of the middle neck piece, shown in photo above.

assembly

Then you will pin the rest of the ribbing around to form the neck hole. Shown in the photo above is the ribbing pinned to the back panel.

assembly

Also pin the neck ribbing to the front panel tops like shown in the photo above.

assembly

Sew all along the neck ribbing where you previously pinned attaching to both panels and the tops of the middle neck piece. You will use the same whip stitch technique with a loose hand.

assembly

Then, moving onto the sleeves you will pin and sew the ribbing onto each sleeve, again using the whip stitch with yarn needle.

assembly

After the sleeves are done you will lay out your sweater pieces like in the photo above--all pieces right side down. The middle of the sleeves need to line up directly with the top seam where the front and back panel meet. Pin your pieces together. I sewed the the tops of the panels together first then attached the sleeves.

assembly

Next you will fold sweater over, matching all the edges, like shown in photo above (right sides still together). And you will sew along the bottoms of the sleeves and each side of the sweater.

assembly

Moving onto the bottom ribbing... sew the two short ends together using a whip stitch.

assembly

Moving onto the bottom ribbing... sew the two short ends together using a whip stitch.

assembly

Next you will begin on the button closures. Fold each i-cord in half and space them out evenly along the middle neck piece like in the photo above. You can play around with where you’d like your buttons to match up with them also.

assembly

Then sew each closure where you decided to place them. I made several passes with my needle to make sure they were very secure.

assembly

After all closures are added, you will sew on your buttons. I just played around with where they best matched up with the i-cords.

assembly

After all buttons are sewn on, you will want to sew the i-cord closures closed on the right side, leaving a small opening for the button to slip through--otherwise they will come loose with wear. I just drew needle and yarn through back and forth closing up the gap on all of them.

assembly

Once the i-cords are all closed up, you can loop each one around the button snugly. After that, you get the lovely pleasure of weaving in your ends. But after that you’ll have one cute sweater!

Toddler Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern

Whew!! Talk about some serious assembly… but in my opinion, 100% worth it. I love this little sweater. And I think it looks so dang adorable on my kiddo :) If you make one for the kiddo in your life, do please tag me over on Instagram! I’d love to admire :)

Until next time!

Meg

Toddler Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern - Megmade with Love