Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in my shop by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing!***

The jute is baaaaackkkkk! And today it's in the form of a cute little circle purse. For some reason I like to put my hands through torture by working with jute, but every time it is 100% worth it because the results are so rustic and unique! I think you GOTTA make this summer staple :)

Free Crochet Pattern for the Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

I'm sure you've seen all the cool straw-like circle bags circulating the internet recently-- they're really in style this summer! And it makes me happy because they look so cute with any outfit. Especially paired with a swimsuit, shorts and your favorite sunnies. :) If you're anything like me, this is the perfect bag because you can just toss the essentials in, like your wallet and keys (and of course a snack for your toddler haha), and you're set.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Since this pattern calls for such thick jute, it makes for a very easy, weekend project. And I chose the 5mm jute because I wanted a really structured bag (even though it still has some "move" to it). I chose to spray it with heavy starch to add a little extra stiffness to it-- I talk about this in the pattern below.

It's worked up in two circles, plus a bottom-- it also features a button-closure on the top that is simple and cute! The cross body handle was actually recycled from an older purse, but you could totally find some unique straps at a thrift store-- or even crochet your own! Craft stores also sell lots of options.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Since jute can be such a pain to work with, I thought I'd leave a few tips below on how to make working with it a bit easier...

A few tips for working with jute:

-try holding the yarn a different way for more comfort. For some reason, it's easier for the jute to glide through my hand when it's wrapped around my pointer finger as opposed to my pinky-- which is how I usually hold it. I'd just suggest trying different ways of holding it to see what feels best to you. I held it very loosely because it was too much on my hands to have a tight grip.

-I've had some people say they've used gloves while working with it. It's worth a shot if your skin is sensitive!

-take breaks. I usually have to take breaks to give my hands a rest after working with jute for awhile. 

-jute can be messy-- leaving little particles of the fibers when you work with it. Just be aware of that, in case you work with it in a place you'd rather not get messy.

Overall: yes, jute is hard to work with-- but the way it looks all worked up is so cool to me. I feel like it's worth it! But that's just my opinion :) Now for the jute purse pattern...

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

(PDF version HERE)

What you'll need:

-5 mm thick jute (This is a very thick jute-- I used this 900 ft roll of Natural Jute from Hobby Lobby [link here], use a 40% off coupon!)
-15mm crochet hook
-button for top closure (I would suggest using a "shank" type button)
-purse handles (I just used some I already had off an old purse-- they had clip-on clasps that I just attached to the sides. You could sew some on or even crochet your own! Also consider thrifting an older purse and taking off the handles.)
-needle and thread
-heavy starch (I used "Faultless" brand)

Dimensions:

Circle circumference is about 11.5 inches

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, st(s)= stitch(es), sc=single crochet, BLO=back loop only, FLO=front loop only, sl=slip, 2sc= work two single crochet in one stitch

Notes:

-jute can be really rough on the hands, and hard to work with. Since this project is so small, I found it was worth the little bit of struggle!

-chains at beginning of rounds/rows do not count as stitches

-first st of each round is worked into the same sc you joined to in the previous row with a sl st

-you will crochet the purse in two pieces-- two circles, and one of them will have the purse bottom. The circles have two sides that look different, I thought they both looked cute, but decided to face the "rougher" side out!

-I wove in all my ends with a crochet hook since the jute was so thick, just a tip!

Pattern:

-First Circle-

Round 1) Make magic circle, ch 1, work 10 sc into circle, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (10 total sts)

Round 2) ch 1, work 2 sc into BLO of each st around, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (20 total sts)

Round 3) ch 1, sc into BLO of each st around, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (20 total sts)

Round 4) ch 1, (2sc, sc) into BLO of each st around, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (30 total sts)

Round 5) ch 1, sc into BLO of each st around, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (30 total sts)

Round 6)  ch 1, (2sc, sc, sc) into BLO of each st around, join to back loop of first sc with sl st (40 total sts) 

-finish off

-Second Circle-

Rounds 1-6) repeat instructions from first circle

-do not finish off, you will now start working the purse bottom, you're working it attached to this second circle

-Purse Bottom-

7) ch 1, sc into BLO of 28 sts (you could easily customize this number to how far up you'd like the purse bottom to come) (28 total sts, and for the remainder of purse bottom)

8) ch 1, turn, sc into FLO of 28 sts just worked in previous step

9) ch 1, turn, sc into BLO of 28 sts just worked in previous step

-finish off and leave a very long end to sew the two pieces together.

**At this point, I decided to starch my two pieces. I did so by lying them flat on the cement outside and sprayed both sides generously and then let them dry outside (still on a flat surface). This really helped stiffen them up so the bag would be more structured. Keep spraying and letting them dry until they are to your desired stiffness. You will also need to decide which side you would like to be the outside of your purse, and adjust your purse bottom accordingly. I decided to go "bumpy" side out, as opposed to the side with the rings on it (below photo shows the two different sides).

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Above is a photo of the two circles complete-- the one on the right has the purse bottom attached. After you've starched them to your liking you are ready to sew them together.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Since this jute is so darn thick, I chose to "sew" them with a crochet hook. Using the extra long tail from your circle, whip stitch the edge of the first circle to the open edge of the purse bottom. 

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Continue all the way along the purse bottom until you reach the other side, and then finish off and weave in your ends.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Now you're ready for the button closure of the purse. I used these cool wood beads I saw at Walmart-- I wanted something simple and rustic looking.

Crochet Jute Purse - Megmade with Love

Sew on your button onto the very top middle of your purse with needle and thread. I put mine about 3/4 inch from the top. 

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Next for the closure, cut a piece of jute that is 6 inches long, depending on how big your button is and where you place it, you may need to adjust the length. This will go on the INSIDE of the other circle, and will loop around your button to secure the top of your purse.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Fold the little piece of jute in half to create a loop. Like previously mentioned you are placing it on the inside of the other circle, at the top middle. Adjust it until it fits snugly around your button and to your liking.

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Then you will sew the two ends to the purse, wrapping around them (see photo above). For this part I decided to use a thin jute string because I didn't want string to show on the opposite side. Continue sewing until your loopy-piece is extra secure. You could super glue ends to prevent fraying if you wanted to!

After your closure pieces are sewn on, all you need to do is attach your handles and your cute jute purse is complete :)

Free Crochet Pattern for The Cute Jute Purse - Megmade with Love

Do please share with me over on Insta if you make one of these for yourself! I think it'd be perfect for your summer vacay :)

As always, happy hookin' friends,
Meg

Free Crochet Pattern for the Cute Jute Circle Purse - Megmade with Love

Free Crochet Pattern for the Easy, Breezy Swim Cover

Crochet Pattern for the Easy Breezy Swim Cover - Megmade with Love

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in my shop by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing!***

Guys. It's almost pool season... And that makes me so happy!! There's nothing like a summer day spent in the pool, orrrrr even better at the beach (I wish-- Kansas is like the opposite of beach lol). So to celebrate this great warm season, I've got a cool and crazy-easy swimsuit cover for you in this post!

Free Crochet Pattern for the Easy Breezy Swimsuit Cover - Megmade with Love

So when I say easy, I mean e a s y. This design is similar to the Cross My Heart Sweater-- which was worked in one piece. There are zero increases and decreases, so you're essentially just working one big rectangle with a hole in the middle. Score!

Free Crochet Pattern for the Easy Breezy Swimsuit Cover - Megmade with Love

For this coverup, I thought it'd be cute to have an exaggerated hi-lo back, meaning the back side of the piece is longer--and I really love this detail. As far as sizes go, there are three sizes: s/m, l/xl, and plus size. This coverup is very forgiving, and is designed to be a bit oversized-- then when you cinch it up around the waist with your crocheted i-cord you get a more complete, cute look. 

Free Crochet Pattern for the Easy Breezy Swimsuit Cover - Megmade with Love

Since this piece is so simple, it's incredibly easy to customize. You can make it shorter or longer depending on your height, or even add or take away rows if you'd like a customized size. You could even add some fringe or little tassels along the bottom for more of a "boho" feel. :) I hope you get to make one of these this summer, you'll be looking cyuuuutte in it, I'll tell ya that!!

Here's a fun and totally awkward pic of me holding the coverup before assembled. It's just one big rectangle-- taller than me!

Here's a fun and totally awkward pic of me holding the coverup before assembled. It's just one big rectangle-- taller than me!

What you'll need:

-worsted weight cotton yarn (see sizing for yardage, I used Hobby Lobby's I Love This Cotton! yarn in color "Warm Blush" *linked here*, this is a great yarn for this project, incredibly soft and lightweight)

-i hook (5.5 mm), or hook needed to obtain gauge

-yarn needle

-measuring tape

Sizing:

Pattern is written for three sizes (since it's so forgiving):

SMALL/MEDIUM

Approx. 44" bust, 29" front length, 35" back length, 850 yards of yarn

LARGE/XTRA LARGE

Approx. 50" bust, 30" front length, 36" back length, 950 yards of yarn

PLUS SIZE

Approx. 56" bust, 31" front length, 37" back length, 1050 yards of yarn

Gauge:

14 double crochet by 8 rows equals a four-inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, st(s)=stitch(es), sc=single crochet, sk=skip, sp=space, dc=double crochet, dtr=double treble crochet (see below for how to), beg=beginning

Stitch Explanations:

double treble crochet: yarn over THREE times, insert hook in stitch, draw yarn back through, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 4 times **see a video and illustration HERE for added assistance

puff stitch: 1) yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn back through 2)Repeat the previous step three times- you will have nine loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all nine loops

Notes:

-chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches UNLESS noted in the pattern

-coverup is worked in one piece, from side to side as you create a neck hole in the middle

-the length of the coverup can be customized to your liking by adding or taking away stitches in multiples of two-- this will obviously change the stitch counts. I'm about 5'5 wearing a SMALL/MEDIUM, and the front hit me on my upper thigh and the back side just above the knee

-I would highly suggest checking gauge, especially if you're using a different yarn. I'd hate for you to work a whole garment only to find out you crochet differently than me!

-I worked stitches into the "ch 1" sp's, because it was faster, you could work either in the spaces or the stitches, whichever works!

-you may need to block or iron your coverup when done

***below are photos that are referenced to in the pattern:

Slideshow A:

Slideshow B:

Photo C:

***REVISED!** I changed the photo below on 6/21/18... I realized I pointed out the incorrect stitch to work the first sc into. I am so sorry for the trouble!!

crochet swim cover - megmade with love

Photo D:

crochet swimsuit cover

Video E

Pattern:

SMALL/MEDIUM

Row 1) ch 221, sc in 2nd ch from and across row (220 total sts, and for the rest of rows)

Row 2) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] across row

Row 3) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Row 4) ch 5 (5th ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dtr, [ch 1, sk st, dtr] across row

Row 5) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 5th ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 6-7) Repeat rows 4-5

Rows 8-9) Repeat rows 2-3

Row 10) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, puff st, [ch 1, sk st, puff st] across row (you won't ch 1 at the end of the row) **see slideshow A in the notes section for visual assistance

Row 11) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, puff st into next "ch 1" sp, and across **see photo slideshow B in the notes section for where to work puff sts (last puff st is worked into the "ch 1" sp created by the 3rd beg ch from previous row, and don't ch 1 at the end of the row, just like in the previous row)

Row 12) ch 1, turn, sc across row **see Photo C in notes for where to work first sc (work last sc into 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 13-23) Repeat rows 2-12

Row 24) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] 54 times (55 total dc's worked so far), ch 39, sk 39 sts (making sure not to twist ch), dc, [ch 1, sk st, dc] across the remainder of the row (doing [ ] 35 times) **the neck hole will be closer to one side than the other

**just a tip: the second half of the coverup at this point is a mirror image of the first half you just worked. AKA you're working the first half of the coverup, backwards**

Row 25) ch 1, turn, sc across row-- working into the ch's that made the neck hole (work the last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 26-28) Repeat rows 10-12

Rows 29-39) Repeat rows 2-12

Rows 40-47) Repeat rows 2-9

-do not finish off, you are now going to work sc's along the side of your work to make the edge look neater (this will eventually be the bottom of your coverup).

Like Photo D explains in the notes section, you will work sc's along the side of your work from where you left off in row 47. Working the sc's into the very edge.

Once you're finished working sc's down the side, you will finish off. Then you will draw up your yarn on the other unworked side and work sc's all along that side too.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

For the belt/tie you will crochet an i-cord of 54 inches, view Video E in the notes section for how to make an i-cord.

At this point you are ready for assembly....

LARGE/X LARGE

Row 1) ch 229, sc in 2nd ch from and across row (228 total sts, and for the rest of rows)

Row 2) ch 5 (5th ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dtr, [ch 1, sk st, dtr] across row

Row 3) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 5th ch from beg of previous row)

Row 4) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] across row

Row 5) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 6-7) Repeat rows 2-3

Rows 8-9) Repeat rows 2-3

Rows 10-11) Repeat rows 4-5

Row 12) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, puff st, [ch 1, sk st, puff st] across row (you won't ch 1 at the end of the row) **see slideshow A in the notes section for visual assistance

Row 13) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, puff st into next "ch 1" sp, and across **see slideshow B in the notes section for where to work puff sts (last puff st is worked into the "ch 1" sp created by the 3rd beg ch from previous row, and don't ch 1 at the end of the row, just like in the previous row)

Row 14) ch 1, turn, sc across row **see Photo C in notes for where to work first sc

Rows 15-25) Repeat rows 4-14

Row 26) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] 55 times (56 total dc's worked so far), ch 43, sk 43 sts (making sure not to twist ch), dc, [ch 1, sk st, dc] across the remainder of the row (doing [ ] 36 times) **the neck hole will be closer to one side than the other

**just a tip: the second half of the coverup at this point is a mirror image of the first half you just worked. AKA  you're working the first half of the coverup, backwards**

Row 27) ch 1, turn, sc across row-- working into the ch's that made the neck hole (work the last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 28-30) Repeat rows 12-14

Rows 31-41) Repeat rows 4-14

Rows 42-49) Repeat rows 4-11

Rows 50-51) Repeat rows 2-3

-do not finish off, you are now going to work sc's along the side of your work to make the edge look neater (this will eventually be the bottom of your coverup).

Like Photo D explains in the notes section, you will work sc's along the side of your work from where you left off in row 51. Working the sc's into the very edge-- this is so your edge will have a nicer finish. 

Once you're finished working sc's down the side, you will finish off. Then you will draw up your yarn on the other unworked side and work sc's all along that side too.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

For the belt/tie you will crochet an i cord of 58 inches, view Video E in the notes section for how to make an i-cord.

At this point you are ready for assembly....

PLUS SIZE

Row 1) ch 237, sc in 2nd ch from and across row (236 total sts, and for the rest of rows)

Row 2) ch 5 (5th ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dtr, [ch 1, sk st, dtr] across row

Row 3) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 5th ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 4-5) Repeat rows 2-3

Row 6) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] across row

Row 7) ch 1, turn, sc across row (work last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 8-13) Repeat rows 2-7

Row 14)  ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, puff st, [ch 1, sk st, puff st] across row (you won't ch 1 at the end of the row) **see slideshow A in the notes section for visual assistance

Row 15) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as a "ch 1" sp), turn, puff st into next "ch 1" sp, and across **see slideshow B in the notes section for where to work puff sts (last puff st is worked into the "ch 1" sp created by the 3rd beg ch from previous row, and don't ch 1 at the end of the row, just like in the previous row)

Row 16) ch 1, turn, sc across row **see Photo C in notes for where to work first sc

Rows 17-27) Repeat rows 6-16

Row 28) ch 3 (3rd ch counts as "ch 1" sp), turn, sk first st, dc [ch 1, sk st, dc] 56 times (57 total dc's worked so far), ch 47, sk 47 sts (making sure not to twist ch), dc, [ch 1, sk st, dc] across the remainder of the row (doing [ ] 37 times) **the neck hole will be closer to one side than the other

Row 29) ch 1, turn, sc across row-- working into the ch's that made the neck hole (work the last sc into the 3rd ch from beg of previous row)

Rows 30-32) Repeat rows 14-16

Rows 33-43) Repeat rows 6-16

Rows 44-51) Repeat rows 6-13

Rows 52-55) Repeat rows 2-5

-do not finish off, you are now going to work sc's along the side of your work to make the edge look neater (this will eventually be the bottom of your coverup).

Like Photo D explains in the notes section, you will work sc's along the side of your work from where you left off in row 55. Working the sc's into the very edge.

Once you work sc's all the way across to the other side, you will finish off. Then you will draw up your yarn on the other unworked side and work sc's all along that side too.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

For the belt/tie you will crochet an i cord of 62 inches, view Video E in the notes section for how to make an i-cord.

At this point you are ready for assembly....

Assembly:

crochet swimsuit cover

To begin your assembly, you will fold the piece in half, short sides together. You will make the back side of the coverup six inches longer than the front side (see photo above). You can tell the front and back sides of the coverup apart by how long of a distance there is between the neck and the bottom: the front side has a shorter distance than the back.  You could safety pin them together to secure if you'd prefer before sewing.

crochet swimsuit cover - megmade with love

Now you are ready to sew the sides, grab your needle and long strand of yarn. Line your measuring tape up against the side of your folded coverup, just like in the photo above. The photo indicates where the different sizes will sew according to color... 

-for size S/M (RED): you will sew beginning 10 inches from the top of the coverup, and down 10 inches, AKA you are sewing from inches 10 to 20

-for size L/XL (BLUE): you will sew beginning 11 inches from the top of the coverup, and down 10 inches, AKA you are sewing from inches 11 to 21

-for size PLUS (GREEN): you will sew beginning 12 inches from the top of the coverup, and down 10 inches, AKA you are sewing from inches 12 to 22

Do this for both sides of the coverup..

After you're done sewing you'll just weave your i-cord belt in and out of the rows where the coverup hits the small of your waist-- I chose to weave it in about 6 inches from the bottom of the neck opening.

At this point you could either add fringe/tassels if your heart desired. And you may need to iron/block your piece for it to lay nice and flat. 

Had to get a pic with a cute baby and a popsicle!

Had to get a pic with a cute baby and a popsicle!

And just like that, you've completed the cutest lil' swim coverup! What a easy and fun project for summer. If you make your own, you've GOTTA share a pic with me over on Instagram! I'd love to swoon over it :) Take care, and happy hookin'!

-Meg

Free Crochet Pattern for Easy Breezy Swim Cover - Swimsuit Coverup - Megmade with Love