Free Crochet Pattern for the Marley Cardi - A Long & Chunky Cardigan Sweater

Free Pattern for the Marley Cardi

****You can purchase the PDF version of this pattern in my shop by clicking here. Great for easy printing!****

Boy, am I excited to share this week's pattern with you! It's for the sweetest little sweater you ever did see. And wear. And make.

It's for the Marley Cardi, a cardigan designed using medium worsted weight yarn plus size 10 crochet thread to create the "marled" or heathered look. I wanted to keep this design pretty simple, so it's made up of good 'ole dc and hdc. The dc's are worked in the BLO to create some cute texture. 

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This sweater is available in sizes XS-3XL! I worked super hard to cater to more sizes, because I wanted everyone to be able to make this bad boy. :)

It's designed to more hang by the sides of your body, and not necessarily to close all the way down. If you'd rather your sweater have some more room, or to close, I would suggest sizing up. 

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Since this sweater is designed using BOTH the thread and worsted weight yarn, I would 100% recommend making the sweater with both. I thought it'd make for some cool opportunities to play with color. Also note that I used Caron Simply Soft-- which in my opinion is a much "lighter" medium worsted weight yarn compared to others in it's category. I would suggest checking gauge if you use a different yarn!

(Although I'm sure some will ask if it can be made solely with the worsted, and if you insist, I would suggest either sizing up or maybe double checking your gauge and adjusting hook to acquire it.)

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This sweater is chunky (yet flowy), cozy and pairs great with leggings. I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did!! 

What you'll need:

-Worsted weight (4) yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft in White -- see yardage information in the notes)
-Size 10 Crochet Thread (I used Red Heart Classic Crochet Thread in Black)
-Size M Hook (9mm)
-Yarn needle
-Safety or sewing pins

Gauge:

11 sts by 7 rows of [one row hdc, one row dc BLO -- alternately] equals  a four-inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, st(s)=stitch(es), hdc=half double crochet, dc=double crochet  BLO=back loop only, 2dc=work two half double crochet in one stitch, dc2tog=double crochet two together, sp=space, hdc2tog=half double crochet two together, sl=slip, sc=single crochet, sk=skip

Notes:

****You can purchase the PDF version of this pattern in my shop by clicking here. Great for easy printing!****

Measurements & yarn yardage for the sweater sizes (approximately):
XS:
Bust: 33 inches, Length: 31 inches (Approx 575 yards of both worsted and thread)
S:
Bust: 34 inches, Length: 31 inches (Approx 625 yards of both worsted and thread)
M:
Bust: 36 inches, Length: 31 inches (Approx 675 yards of both worsted and thread)
L:
Bust: 39 inches, Length:  32.5 inches (Approx 750 yards of both worsted and thread)
XL:
Bust: 42 inches, Length: 32.5 inches (Approx 825 yards of both worsted and thread)
2XL:
Bust: 46 inches, Length: 32.5 inches (Approx 900 yards of both worsted and thread)
3XL:
Bust: 50 inches, Length: 32.5 (Approx 975 yards of both worsted and thread)

-this is how sizes are formated: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL

-ch’s at beginning of rows/rounds do not count as a stitch

-I designed this sweater to not close 100% in the front over the tummy. If you would rather your sweater did close, you could size-up

-for this sweater, I used one strand of the thread and one strand of the worsted weight yarn at the same time to create the “marled” effect.

-all body pieces are worked from the bottom-up

-the ribbed side of all pieces are the “right” side

-you can shorten or lengthen the body of the cardigan by adding/taking away 2 rows at a time before row 34 (I say this because if you take away an odd amount it will throw off the directions). I am about 5/5 and it hits me mid-thigh. You can also add/take away as many rows as you’d like on the sleeves after round 20 to adjust the sleeve length

-on the sleeves you will work the dc’s into the “3rd loop” of the previous hdc’s. This loop is on the back side of the hdc’s, just below the two loops you usually work into. You can see a photo of the “3rd loop” below

-the instructions for the hdc rows of the sleeves are a little different- this is to prevent the sleeve seam from twisting around the arm. By skipping the first st and working the last st into the previous row’s joining sl st you are making the seam stay straight.

Pattern & Assembly:

Front Right Body Panel:

Row 1) *Using both thread and worsted weight: ch 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 29, 32, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, and across (18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across (18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)

For sizes XS, S, M:
Rows 4-33) Repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately (row 33 will be a hdc row)
Row 34) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 15, 16, 18 sts, 2 dc (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 35) ch 1, turn, hdc across (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 36) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 37) repeat row 35
Row 38) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 16, 17, 19 sts (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 39) ch 1, turn, hdc across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 40) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 41) ch 1, turn, hdc across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 42) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 15, 16, 18 sts (16, 17, 19 total sts)
Row 43) ch 1, turn, hdc across (16, 17, 19 total sts)
Row 44) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 2, 2, 3 sts, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st in next 10, 11, 12 sts (16, 17, 19 total sts)
-Finish off, leave long tail for sewing the top seam

For sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL:
Rows 4-35) Repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately (row 35 will be a hdc row)
Row 36) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 20, 22, 25, 28 sts, 2 dc (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 37) ch 1, turn, hdc across (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 38) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 39) repeat row 35
Row 40) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 21, 23, 26, 29 sts (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 41) ch 1, turn, hdc across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 42) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 43) ch 1, turn, hdc across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 44) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc2tog, dc in next 20, 22, 25, 28 sts (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
Row 45) ch 1, turn, hdc across (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
Row 46) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 4, 5, 6, 7 sts, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st in next 13, 14, 16, 18 sts (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
-Finish off, leave long tail for sewing the top seam

Front Left Body Panel:

For sizes XS, S, M:
Rows 1-33) follow the same instructions as the right body panel
Row 34) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: 2 dc, dc in next 15, 16, 18 sts, dc2tog (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 35) ch 1, turn, hdc across (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 36) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (18, 19, 21 total sts)
Row 37) repeat row 35
Row 38) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 16, 17, 19 sts, dc2tog (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 39) ch 1, turn, hdc across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 40) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 41) ch 1, turn, hdc across (17, 18, 20 total sts)
Row 42) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 15, 16, 18 sts, dc2tog (16, 17, 19 total sts)
Row 43) ch 1, turn, hdc across (16, 17, 19 total sts)
Row 44) ch 1, turn, *all sts BLO: sl st in 10, 11, 12 sts, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc in 2, 2, 3 sts (16, 17, 19 total sts)
-Finish off, leave long tail for sewing the top seam

For sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL:
Rows 1-35) follow the same instructions as the right body panel
Row 36) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: 2 dc, dc in next 20, 22, 25, 28 sts, dc2tog (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 37) ch 1, turn, hdc across (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 38) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (23, 25, 28, 31 total sts)
Row 39) repeat row 35 Row 40) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 21, 23, 26, 29 sts, dc2tog (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 41) ch 1, turn, hdc across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 42) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 43) ch 1, turn, hdc across (22, 24, 27, 30 total sts)
Row 44) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: dc in 20, 22, 25, 28 sts, dc2tog (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
Row 45) ch 1, turn, hdc across (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
Row 46) ch 1, turn, *all sts BLO: sl st in 13, 14, 16, 18 sts, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc in 4, 5, 6, 7 sts  (21, 23, 26, 29 total sts)
-Finish off, leave long tail for sewing the top seam

Back body panel:

Row 1) *Using both thread and worsted weight: ch 46, 48, 51, 54, 58, 64, 70, hdc into 2nd ch from hook, and across (45, 47, 50, 53, 57, 63, 69 total sts)
Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (45, 47, 50, 53, 57, 63, 69 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across (45, 47, 50, 53, 57, 63, 69 total sts)

For sizes XS, S, M:
Rows 4-33) repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately (row 33 will be a hdc row)
Row 34) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: 2dc, dc in next 43, 45, 48 sts, 2dc in last st (47, 49, 52 total sts)
Row 35) ch 1, turn, hdc across (47, 49, 52 total sts)
Row 36) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (47, 49, 52 total sts)
Rows 37-43) repeat rows 35 & 36 alternately (row 43 will be a hdc row)
Row 44) ch 1, turn, *all sts BLO: sl st in 10, 11, 12 sts, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc in 19, 19, 20 sts, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st in 10, 11, 12 sts (47, 49, 52 total sts)
-Finish off

For sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL:
Rows 4-35) repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately (row 33 will be a hdc row)
Row 36) ch 2, turn, *all sts BLO: 2dc, dc in next 51, 55, 61, 67 sts, 2dc in last st (55, 59, 65, 71 total sts)
Row 37) ch 1, turn, hdc across (55, 59, 65, 71total sts)
Row 38) ch 2, turn, dc BLO across (55, 59, 65, 71 total sts)
Rows 39-45) repeat rows 37 & 38 alternately (row 45 will be a hdc row)
Row 46) ch 1, turn, *all sts BLO: sl st in 13, 14, 16, 18 sts, sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc in 21, 23, 25, 27 sts, hdc, hdc, sc, sc, sl st in 13, 14, 16, 18 sts (55, 59, 65, 71 total sts)
-Finish off

Sewing your body pieces:

assembly01.jpg

After all your body pieces are complete, you will sew them all together. Lay them on a flat surface, right sides together. If you are confused about which front panel is which, the sl st’s of the last rows of each one will match up with back piece. And since the last row increases, the center is a bit taller than the outsides.

When you match up your pieces make extra sure to align the rows of each piece. This is important because you will need the correct amount of rows to finish the sleeves. I pinned mine together with small safety pins, so they wouldn’t shift around while sewing.

To sew, use a long piece of your worsted weight and yarn needle. I used an overstitch to attach them along the very edge of the pieces . I liked this stitch because it lays nicely. Personal preference.

For the sides...
For XS & S:
Sew up to row 33 on each side
For M:
Sew up to row 32 on each side
For L & XL:
Sew up to row 33 on each side
For 2XL & 3XL:
Sew up to row 32 on each side

Then for the top shoulder seam...
You will align the stitches of the top rows of the front and back panels-- starting on the outside. So the sl sts of the front panel should align with the sl sts of the back panel, as well as the sc’s, hdc’s and dc’s. Make extra sure you’re matching up the stitches, because you will need the correct amount of stitches on the back middle to work the edgining of the sweater.

You will sew along the top seam until you reach the end of each of the front panels. You can see the photo above for assistance. 

The amount of sts on the back panel remaining unsewn will be:
XS: 15 sts S: 15 sts M: 14 sts L: 13 sts XL: 13 sts 2XL: 13 sts 3XL: 13 sts

Edging:

assembly04.jpg

After the body pieces are sewn together, you will work the edging (or band).

assembly03.jpg

Turn your sweater back to the right side. You will draw up your worsted yarn plus the thread on the first row of the front right panel. ch 1, and work a hdc into the same sp you drew up the yarn. then you will work hdc’s along the entire edge of that front panel-- working one hdc into the sides of the hdc rows, and two hdc’s into the sides of the dc rows.

The amount of sts along the front right panel side..
For XS-M: 66 sts
For L-3XL: 69 sts

Once you get to the top of the front right panel you will work two hdc’s into the corner seam. Then one hdc into each st along the middle of the back panel.

The amount of sts along the back middle panel...
XS: 15 sts
S: 15 sts
M: 14 sts
L: 13 sts
XL: 13 sts
2XL: 13 sts
3XL: 13 sts

Then you will work another two hdc’s into the next corner seam. And you will work down the front left panel the same way you worked the front right panel.

The amount of sts along the front left panel side:
For XS-M: 66 sts
For L-3XL: 69 sts

Total sts for the edging..
XS & S: 151 sts
M: 150 sts
L-3XL: 155 sts

Then for the second row of edging you will ch 1, turn, and work a hdc into each st around-- ending up where you started.
-Finish off

Sleeves:

Both sleeves are worked this way: (The sweater is turned right side out)
Round 1) Using both worsted and thread, draw up your yarn in the armpit seam, and ch 1.
Then you will work a hdc into the same spot you just drew up the yarn. You will work hdc’s along one side, just like how you did with the edging: one hdc into the side of the hdc rows and two hdc’s into the side of the dc rows. When you get to the top shoulder seam, where there are sl st rows, you will work one hdc into the side of the sl st rows. You will also work one hdc into the top shoulder seam. Then work the hdc’s back down the other side. Last, join to the first hdc with a sl st.

Total sts for first row of sleeve:
XS & S: 34 sts
M: 36 sts
L & XL: 40 sts
2XL & 3XL: 42 sts

Round 2) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (34, 34, 36, 40, 40, 42, 42 total sts)
Round 3) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into 30, 30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 38 sts, hdc2tog (This last hdc2tog, you are working it into the last st, plus the previous row’s joining sl st. This is written this way so the seam won’t twist around the arm--and will stay straight. You will do this for the hdc rows of the sleeve) join to first hdc2tog with sl st (32, 32, 34, 38, 38, 40, 40 total sts)
Round 4) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (32, 32, 34, 38, 38, 40, 40)
Round 5) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into 28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36, 36 sts, hdc2tog (worked into last st & previous row’s joining sl st), join to first hdc2tog with sl st (30, 30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 38 total sts)
Round 6) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (30, 30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 38 total sts)
Round 7) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into 26, 26, 28, 32, 32, 34, 34 sts, hdc2tog (worked into last st & previous row’s joining sl st), join to first hdc2tog with sl st (28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36, 36 total sts)
Round 8) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36, 36 total sts)
Round 9) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into 24, 24, 26, 30, 30, 32, 32 sts, hdc2tog (worked into last st & previous row’s joining sl st), join to first hdc2tog with sl st (26, 26, 28, 32, 32, 34, 34 total sts)
Round 10) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (26, 26, 28, 32, 32, 34, 34 total sts)
Round 11) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into the remaining sts--working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc2tog with sl st (25, 25, 27, 31, 31, 33, 33 total sts)
Round 12) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (25, 25, 27, 31, 31, 33, 33 total sts
Round 13) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into the remaining sts--working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc2tog with sl st (24, 24, 26, 30, 30, 32, 32 total sts)
Round 14) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (24, 24, 26, 30, 30, 32, 32 total sts)
Round 15) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into the remaining sts--working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc2tog with sl st (23, 23, 25, 29, 29, 31, 31 total sts)
Round 16) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (23, 23, 25, 29, 29, 31, 31 total sts)
Round 17) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into the remaining sts--working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc2tog with sl st (22, 22, 24, 28, 28, 30, 30 total sts)
Round 18) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (22, 22, 24, 28, 28, 30, 30 total sts)
Round 19) ch 1, sk first st, hdc2tog, hdc into the remaining sts--working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc2tog with sl st (21, 21, 23, 27, 27, 29, 29 total sts)
Round 20) ch 2, dc into “3rd loop” around, join to first dc with sl st (21, 21, 23, 27, 27, 29, 29 total sts)
Round 21) ch 1, sk first st, hdc around-- working the last hdc into the joining sl st of the previous row, join to first hdc with sl st (21, 21, 23, 27, 27, 29, 29 total sts)
Rounds 22-33) Repeat rows 20 & 21 alternately (Round 33 will be a hdc round)
Finish off

After both sleeves are completed and all ends are woven in-- your Marley Cardi is complete!

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Whew! That was quite the pattern to whip up, but I hope you enjoy it & find it easy to understand!

If you finish your sweater, do please tag me over on Instagram. I'd love to see what color combo you come up with! 

Feel free to leave questions regarding the pattern below, I will get to them as soon as possible.

Happy making!
Meg

 

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