The Butterscotch Onesie - Free Crochet Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Since we’ll be welcoming a precious lil’ peanut this May, my head’s been swirling with ideas on patterns to make for babies... This Butterscotch Baby Onesie has been the first item made, and I’m pretty pumped to slip this onto our girl! I’ve not made any baby garments like this before, but it was actually really fun to whip up. If you’re in the market for an adorable handmade baby wearable, then grab a skein of your favorite DK yarn and check out this pattern!

i wanted there to be lottttss of texture on this piece, and played around a lot to figure out my favorite combination. I’m very happy with how the waffle stitch pairs with the little puffs on the bottom.

The pattern is available for sizes newborn through 12 months. I feel like it’s very forgiving given how open the top is. Plus it has some stretch..

It features a button closure bottom for easy changes, and the straps are buttoned along the top as well.

Now, I have to give you the low-down on the yarn I used for this piece. I’ve partnered up with Mountain Meadow Wool on this pattern, and I couldn’t be happier to associate with a brand like theirs. They’re a quality yarn company located here in America (Wyoming) who focuses on eco-friendly operations and fair prices for ranchers (see other great yarns made in the US HERE).

Mountain Meadow Wool Mill is the largest full-service spinning mill in the West— working with 16 local ranching families. And I really admire their efforts to preserve the history and importance of ranchers…

They offer a variety of products and yarns— including the yarn used for this onesie, Powder River. One of my favorite things I learned about their production is that they use eco-friendly cleaners and vegetable based spinning oil to retain the natural lanolin found in wool. I 100% back this company and it’s values.

MMW was gracious enough to offer a 20% off coupon code off the Powder River yarn used in this pattern!! : use code “pr20” to get 20% off Powder River yarn.

Whether making this for your own kiddo, or gifting at a loved one’s baby shower… I think it’ll be cherished and admired. It makes me want to design more little onesies! Hope you enjoy making it if you end up choosing to. :)

Mountain Meadow Wool was gracious enough to offer a 20% off coupon code off the Powder River yarn used in this pattern!! : use code “pr20” to get 20% off Powder River yarn.

The Butterscotch Baby Onesie Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

What you’ll need:

-DK (light, 3) weight yarn (see notes for yardage info). I used Mountain Meadow Wool Powder River DK in color “Marigold”
-5 mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
-five 1/2” buttons
-sewing needle and thread
-yarn needle

Gauge:

16 dc by 9 rows equals a four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, dc=double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), sl=slip, puff st=puff stitch, bpdc=back post double crochet, fpdc=front post double crochet, hdc=half double crochet, sk=skip, hdc3tog=half double crochet three together, sp= space

Notes:

———Sizing———
(size in photos is 0-3 months)

0-3 months
Approximately 8” wide by 14” long
200 yards of dk yarn

3-6 months
Approximately 8.75” wide by 15” long
225 yards of dk yarn

6-12 months
Approximately 9.5” wide by 16” long
250 yards of dk yarn

-this pattern is rated “intermediate”

-ch’s at beginning of rows/rounds do not count as sts, unless noted in pattern

-the way this onesie is worked up, is beginning at the very front top part (the waffle stitch portion), it’s then worked down to the ribbed waist, after that the middle section is worked up (the puff stitch portion) then you will work up the front bottom, and the back bottom. last is straps and the i cord tie

-on the bottom part that has the puff sts, I chose to work the hdc into the ch 1 spaces instead of the actual ch just because it was quicker, either way works though

-here’s how I did the PUFF ST for this pattern:
(yo, insert hook in designated st, draw loop back through—I lifted the yarn to the height of the dc’s when working the puff st) 4 times, yo draw through all 9 loops on hook

Pattern:

***Sizes are formatted 0-3 [3-6, 6-12]***

—TOP OF ONESIE (WAFFLE ST)—

Row 1) ch 23 [26, 29], dc in 3rd st from hook and across (21 [24, 27] total sts)

Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc, (fpdc, dc in next 2 sts) across until last two sts— in last two sts: fpdc, dc (21 [24, 27] total sts)

Row 3) ch 2, turn, dc in 1st two sts, (fpdc next 2 sts, dc) across until last st— dc in last st (21 [24, 27] total sts)

Rows 4-10) repeat rows 2-3 consecutively (row 10 is a repeat of row 2)

do not finish off

—RIBBED WAIST—

*picking up where you left off in row 10 of top of the onesie, now worked in the round*

ch 45 [48, 51], then join to the first dc of row 10 of the top of the onesie with sl st, making sure not to twist the chains

Round 1) ch 2, work dc into dc you sl st into to join and around (first into the dc’s from the top of the onesie, then into the ch’s), join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

Rounds 2-4) ch 2, (fpdc, bpdc) around, join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

do not finish off

—MIDDLE PUFF ST SECTION—

Round 5) ch 1, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

Round 6) ch 2, turn your work, (dc in 3 sts, ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st) around, join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

Round 7) ch 1, turn your work, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

Round 8) ch 3 (the 3rd ch counts as a “ch 1” sp, turn your work, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) around, join to the 2nd of the beginning ch with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

Round 9) ch 1, turn your work, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (66 [72, 78] total sts)

***FOR SIZE 0-3 MONTHS:

Rounds 10-14) repeat rows 6-9 consecutively (round 14 is a repeat of round 6)

***FOR SIZE 3-6 MONTHS:

Rounds 10-16) repeat rows 6-9 consecutively (round 16 is a repeat of round 8)

***FOR SIZE 6-12 MONTHS:

Rounds 10-18) repeat rows 6-9 consecutively (round 18 is a repeat of round 6)

do not finish off

—FRONT BOTTOM PART—

*picking up where you left off in round 14 [16, 18], switching from working in the round to work in rows*

sl st from where you left off in round 14 [16, 18] to the side of the onesie—

***FOR SIZE 0-3 MONTHS: sl st over 8 times

***FOR SIZE 3-6 MONTHS: sl st over 5 times

***FOR SIZE 6-12 MONTHS: sl st over 5 times

See photo below for assistance.

***FOR SIZE 0-3 MONTHS:

Row 1) ch 1, turn, (you will be working back over your sl st’s), hdc3tog, hdc in next 27 sts, hdc3tog (29 total sts)

Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc in 4 sts (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last st— dc in last st (29 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc3tog, hdc across row until last 3 sts— hdc3tog in last 3 sts (25 total sts)

Row 4) ch 2, turn, dc in 5 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 2 sts— dc in last 2 sts (25 total sts)

Row 5) repeat instructions from row 3 (21 total sts)

Row 6) ch 2, turn, dc in 6 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 3 sts— dc in last 3 sts (21 total sts)

Row 7) repeat instructions from row 3 (17 total sts)

Row 8) ch 2, turn, dc, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 4 sts— in last 4: ch 1, sk st, ps, ch 1, sk st, dc (17 total sts)

Rows 9-11) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (17 total sts)

finish off

***FOR SIZE 3-6 MONTHS:

Row 1) ch 1, turn, (you will be working back over your sl st’s), hdc3tog, hdc in next 30 sts, hdc3tog (32 total sts)

Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc in 2 sts (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across (32 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc3tog, hdc across row until last 3 sts— hdc3tog in last 3 sts (28 total sts)

Row 4) ch 2, turn, dc in 3 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last st— dc in last st (28 total sts)

Row 5) repeat instructions from row 3 (24 total sts)

Row 6) ch 2, turn, dc in 4 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 2 sts— dc in last 2 sts (24 total sts)

Row 7) repeat instructions from row 3 (20 total sts)

Row 8) ch 2, turn, dc in 5 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 3 sts— dc in last 3 sts (20 total sts)

Rows 9-11) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (20 total sts)

finish off

***FOR SIZE 6-12 MONTHS:

Row 1) ch 1, turn, (you will be working back over your sl st’s), hdc3tog, hdc in next 33 sts, hdc3tog (35 total sts)

Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc in 8 sts (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 3 sts— dc in last 3 sts (35 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc3tog, hdc across row until last 3 sts— hdc3tog in last 3 sts (31 total sts)

Row 4) ch 2, turn, dc in 3 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 4 sts— in last 4 sts: ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc (31 total sts)

Row 5) repeat instructions from row 3 (27 total sts)

Row 6) ch 2, turn, dc in 4 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across until last 4 sts— in last 4 sts: ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 2 sts (27 total sts)

Row 7) repeat instructions from row 3 (23 total sts)

Row 8) ch 2, turn, dc in 5 sts, (ch 1, sk st, puff st, ch 1, sk st, dc in 3 sts) across (23 total sts)

Rows 9-11) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (23 total sts)

finish off

—BACK BOTTOM PART—

***FOR ALL SIZES:

*flip over to back side of onesie. You will start the back bottom part on the right side. draw up your yarn in the stitch to the left of where the front bottom part ends (see pic below for assistance)*

Row 1) ch 1, and beginning with the st you drew yarn up in—hdc3tog, hdc across until last 3 sts— hdc3tog in last 3 sts (29 [32, 35] total sts)

Row 2) ch 2, turn, dc across row (29 [32, 35] total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc3tog, hdc across until last 3 sts— hdc3tog in last 3 sts (25 [28, 31] total sts)

Row 4) repeat instructions from row 2 (25 [28, 31] total sts)

Row 5) repeat instructions from row 3 (21 [24, 27] total sts)

Row 6) repeat instructions from row 2 (21 [24, 27] total sts)

Row 7)repeat instructions from row 3 (17 [20, 23] total sts)

Row 8) repeat instructions from row 2 (17 [20, 23] total sts)

Rows 9-11) ch 1, turn, hdc across (17 [20, 23] total sts)

finish off

—STRAPS (MAKE 2)—

Row 1) ch 6, dc in 3rd ch from hook and across (4 total sts)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, hdc, fpdc, fpdc, hdc (4 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc, bpdc, bpdc, hdc (4 total sts)

Rows 4-??) repeat rows 2-3 consecutively until the strap is 9 inches long

—I-CORD BELT—

for the belt you will make an i-cord approximately 30-34 inches, depending on preference. Below you can see a video on how to make an i-cord:

Assembly:

First up when assembling the onesie, is attaching the buttons onto the bottom back side. These are 1/2 inch buttons, and they naturally fit in between the stitches, so no button holes were needed. First lay them out and eyeball where you’d like them to be sewn on. I put them on the second to last row, and spaced them out evenly. Once they’re where you’d like them, sew them on with needle and thread, making multiple passes so they’re secure.

You’ll also attach two buttons on the top of the front waffle stitch part— these will be holding the two straps. I sewed mine onto the very top two corners.

To attach the straps, first slip them onto the front two buttons, like shown in the photo above.

Then you’ll cross them over one another (making sure not to twist), and sew them onto the back side of the onesie, along the top of the ribbed waist. I distanced them about the width of the front top waffle part (see above photo).

Sew the straps onto the back using a whip stitch along the edges of the straps and ribbed waist using a yarn needle.

Lastly, you will weave your i-cord in and out of the ribbed waist band and tie into a cute bow to finish off the onesie! Just need to weave in those ends and you’ve got yourself a super cute little piece of clothing. Do please share your finished Butterscotch Onesie with me over on Instagram if you make one, bonus points if a baby is in it. EEK! :)

Happy hookin!
Meg

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater - Free Crochet Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Boy oh boy, have I got a cute new pattern to share with you today… making a sweater for my son has been a goal of mine for quite some time, but I just hadn’t got the chance to do it. Finally the stars aligned and his sweater is complete! And I’ve written a detailed pattern so you could make one for the little in your life!

I’ve written the pattern for sizes 2T, 3T and 4T. And I’m thinking if you size up one for your kiddo, you’d get lots of extra wear out of it.. ya know since they grow like weeds.

I love the little elements of this sweater that make it unique, mostly the fun button feature on the top that closes with little i-cords. I kinda wish I had one in my size… hmmm……

There’s quite a bit of assembly instructions involved, as there are multiple pieces that make up the sweater, but I’ve got your back with TONS of photos for assistance. Since there’s so many details, I’d rate this sweater as more of an “intermediate” pattern rather than beginner.

I used Hobby Lobby’s Denim in Color yarn, which was perfect for a sweater in my opinion, because it’s a 50/50 blend of acrylic and cotton. It’s a bit on the thicker side for a worsted (4) weight yarn, so I think you could get away with using a bulky (5) weight yarn, just checking gauge for accuracy.

I’m very happy/proud to have this sweater out in the world, and I think Sawyer looks so freakin’ cute in it. If you end up making the sweater, I hope you enjoy!

Toddler Boy Crochet Sweater

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

What you’ll need:

-category 4 (worsted) weight yarn, I used Yarn Bee Denim in Color in the color “Denim”, see notes for yardage and other info
-7mm crochet hook
-3 one-inch buttons
-yarn needle
-sewing pins

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, sl=slip, BLO=back loop only, st(s)=stitch(es) slst2tog= slip stitch two together

Gauge:

12 hdc by 9 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:

———SIZING & YARDAGE———

2T:
11.5” wide, 13.5“ long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 425 yards of yarn

3T: 12.5” wide, 14.5” long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 450 yards of yarn

4T: 13.5” wide, 15.5” long (shoulder to bottom)
approximately 475 yards of yarn

-------------------------------------------

-ch at the beginning of each row do not count as stitches

-the yarn I used seemed to be a bit bulkier than other 4 weight yarns I’ve worked with before, I say that because you could probably get away with using a bulky (5) weight yarn, just be sure to check gauge!

-when working the sl st rows, I made sure to have a loose hand so it wouldn’t be too difficult to insert the hook back into the sts on the way back. I did the sl st in two motions: draw yarn through, and pull it a bit, then pull through loop. I found this made it not so tight.

-sweater is made up of multiple pieces: front and back panel, middle neck piece, little i-cords for joining to buttons, sleeves, and ribbing for the bottom of the sweater & sleeves as well as ribbing for the neck top. Below you can see the different pieces.

Pattern:

-—---Back Panel--—--
(worked bottom-up)

***Size 2T
Row 1) ch 35, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (34 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (34 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (34 total sts)
Rows 4-37) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

***Size 3T
Row 1) ch 39, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (38 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (38 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (38 total sts)
Rows 4-41) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

***Size 4T
Row 1) ch 43, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (42 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row, see notes about keeping loose tension (42 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (42 total sts)
Rows 4-45) repeat rows 2 & 3 consecutively
finish off

--—--Front Panel—----
(worked bottom-up)

***Size 2T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 26, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 27) ch 1, turn, hdc in 14 sts (14 total sts)
Row 28) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (14 total sts)
Row 29) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (14 total sts)
Rows 30-37) repeat rows 28 & 29 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 27 (now considered row 27b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see “photo A” below for assistance)

Row 27b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (14 total sts)
Row 28b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (14 total sts)
Row 29b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (14 total sts)
Rows 30b-37b) repeat rows 28b & 29b consecutively
finish off

***Size 3T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 30, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 31) ch 1, turn, hdc in 16 sts (16 total sts)
Row 32) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (16 total sts)
Row 33) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
Rows 34-41) repeat rows 32 & 33 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 31 (now considered row 31b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see“photo A” below for assistance)
Row 31b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (16 total sts)
Row 32b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (16 total sts)
Row 33b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
Rows 34b-41b) repeat rows 32b & 33b consecutively
finish off

***Size 4T
repeat instructions from back panel through row 34, after that you will begin to work one side of the front panel
Row 35) ch 1, turn, hdc in 18 sts (18 total sts)
Row 36) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (18 total sts)
Row 37) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
Rows 38-45) repeat rows 32 & 33 consecutively
finish off

now you will start on the other side of the front panel, you will pick back up on row 35 (now considered row 35b), skipping 6 sts in the middle of the panel, and inserting your hook in the next st, draw up loop (see “photo A” below for assistance)

Row 35b) ch 1, work hdc in same st you drew up in and across to the edge (18 total sts)
Row 36b) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across row (18 total sts)
Row 37b) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
Rows 38b-45b) repeat rows 36b & 37b consecutively
finish off

PHOTO A

-—---Middle Neck Piece -—---
(worked side to side)

***All sizes
Row 1) ch 39, sl st in BLO of 2nd ch from hook and in BLO of all ch’s across (38 total sts)
Rows 2-10--or until it fits into gap between two top sides of front panel) ch 1, sl st in BLO across row (38 total sts)
finish off

-—---Sleeves (make 2) -—---
(worked top-down)

***Size 2T
Row 1) ch 29, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (28 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (28 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (26 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (26 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (26 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (26 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (24 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (20 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (18 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (18 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (16 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (16 total sts)
finish off

***Size 3T
Row 1) ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (30 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (30 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (28 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (28 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (28 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (26 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (26 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (24 total sts) Rows
13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (20 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (18 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (18 total sts)
finish off

***Size 4T
Row 1) ch 33, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (32 total sts)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (32 total sts)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (32 total sts)
Row 4) ch 1, turn, slst2tog, hdc across until last two sts-- slst2tog in last two (30 total sts)
Row 5) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 6) ch 1, turn, sl st in BLO across (30 total sts)
Row 7) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (30 total sts)
Row 8) repeat row 4 (28 total sts)
Rows 9-11) repeat rows 5-7 (28 total sts)
Row 12) repeat row 4 (26 total sts)
Rows 13-15) repeat rows 5-7 (26 total sts)
Row 16) repeat row 4 (24 total sts)
Rows 17-19) repeat rows 5-7 (24 total sts)
Row 20) repeat row 4 (22 total sts)
Rows 21-23) repeat rows 5-7 (22 total sts)
Row 24) repeat row 4 (20 total sts)
Row 25) ch 1, turn, hdc across row (20 total sts)
finish off

-—---Ribbing —----

***All sizes
Row 1) ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5 total sts)
Rows 2-??) ch 1, turn hdc in BLO across row (5 total sts)

you will need to make four pieces of ribbing (you can see visual in notes):

1. one spanning the width of both front and back panels
2-3. two spanning the width of the bottom of each sleeve
4. one neck ribbing that is 11 inches long

-—---I-Cord Button Closures —----

***All sizes
You will make 3 crochet i-cords, each approximately 6 inches in length.

Assembly:

To begin assembly, you will grab your front panel and your middle neck piece. Place the front panel right side down, and place the folded middle neck piece in the little slot, folded side on the bottom, like shown in the photo above.

Next, you will pin the middle neck piece onto the front panel. The back of the middle neck piece connects to the left side of the front panel and the top side connects to the right side of the front panel, shown in photo above. The middle neck piece will stick out above the top of the front panel about 1.5”.

After it is pinned, you will sew using yarn needle and long strand of yarn. Use a loose-handed whip stitch along the right side of the middle neck piece, down until you reach the bottom folded part.

Then make your way across the bottom folded part of the middle neck piece, sewing it to the front panel.

Lift up the middle neck piece to sew the under side to the left side of the front panel, all the way up.

Next up you will attach the top neck ribbing to both the front and back panels and middle neck piece. Lay your back panel down, right side up then front panel on top of it, right side down.

First you will pin the neck ribbing to the top of the middle neck piece that extends over the top of the front panel.

Then wrap the neck ribbing around to pin the other short end to the under side of the middle neck piece, shown in photo above.

Then you will pin the rest of the ribbing around to form the neck hole. Shown in the photo above is the ribbing pinned to the back panel.

Also pin the neck ribbing to the front panel tops like shown in the photo above.

Sew all along the neck ribbing where you previously pinned attaching to both panels and the tops of the middle neck piece. You will use the same whip stitch technique with a loose hand.

Then, moving onto the sleeves you will pin and sew the ribbing onto each sleeve, again using the whip stitch with yarn needle.

After the sleeves are done you will lay out your sweater pieces like in the photo above--all pieces right side down. The middle of the sleeves need to line up directly with the top seam where the front and back panel meet. Pin your pieces together. I sewed the the tops of the panels together first then attached the sleeves.

Next you will fold sweater over, matching all the edges, like shown in photo above (right sides still together). And you will sew along the bottoms of the sleeves and each side of the sweater.

Moving onto the bottom ribbing... sew the two short ends together using a whip stitch.

Moving onto the bottom ribbing... sew the two short ends together using a whip stitch.

Next you will begin on the button closures. Fold each i-cord in half and space them out evenly along the middle neck piece like in the photo above. You can play around with where you’d like your buttons to match up with them also.

Then sew each closure where you decided to place them. I made several passes with my needle to make sure they were very secure.

After all closures are added, you will sew on your buttons. I just played around with where they best matched up with the i-cords.

After all buttons are sewn on, you will want to sew the i-cord closures closed on the right side, leaving a small opening for the button to slip through--otherwise they will come loose with wear. I just drew needle and yarn through back and forth closing up the gap on all of them.

Once the i-cords are all closed up, you can loop each one around the button snugly. After that, you get the lovely pleasure of weaving in your ends. But after that you’ll have one cute sweater!

Whew!! Talk about some serious assembly… but in my opinion, 100% worth it. I love this little sweater. And I think it looks so dang adorable on my kiddo :) If you make one for the kiddo in your life, do please tag me over on Instagram! I’d love to admire :)

Until next time!

Meg