Free Crochet Pattern for Fiona the Flamingo

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in my shop by clicking here. Great for easy printing!***

Welcome to the pattern for the oh-so-lovely Fiona the Flamingo!

About a month ago I decided I needed to make a flamingo plushie toy, I envisioned a sassy-looking flamingo named "Frenchie". Ha! But it turns out my flamingo did not turn out looking very sassy at all. She looked rather lovely and dainty instead. So then Fiona was born. She's rather fancy, I'd say.

She's got a darling little flower crown as well as a pretty little wing, and of course the signature flamingo stance! (Which, by the way I formed her legs and body with wire-- and it turned out great!)

This little doll works up rather quick, which is a win in my books. Hope you love her, and make one of your own Fionas!!

(*** Note: Because this doll has wire in it, I wouldn't recommend it for babies.**)

P.S. I've also created another plushie GOOSE named George and you can see him here. Fiona and his build are very similar! He's pretty cute too. ;)

What you'll need:
Size D hook (3.25 mm)
Caron Simply Soft in Light Country Peach (lcp), Black (b) and White (w), also for the flower crown I used I Love This Yarn! in Light Sage and Tropical Pink
Big handful of Poly Fill
Large tapestry needle
Stitch markers
Wire of choice (I used 22 gauge floral wire, because it's what I had on hand. And I'm all about using what junk I've already got!)
Fabric or ribbon to wrap around the wire (I used white felt. Again, just whatever I had around)
Hot glue/gun
sewing pins

Dimensions:

From head to foot- approximately 13 inches, tail to beak- about 6 inches

Abbreviations:
ch=chain, st(s)=stitch(es), sc=single crochet,  sl=slip, sp=space, yo=yarn over, sk=skip, sc2tog= single crochet two together, 2sc= work two single crochet in one stitch, 2hdc=work 2 half double crochet in one stitch, sc3tog=single crochet three together

Notes:
Like I said above, because this doll has wire in it, I wouldn't recommend it for babies-- just in case.

ch's at the beginning of the row do not count as stitches

I worked all my decreases (sc2tog) in front loop only- this makes it not as visible

Stitch markers would be helpful for you, especially working the legs, because there are so many continuous little rounds, plus working with black yarn...

I free-handed the little embroidered details on the doll, but embroidery marker might help you if you're not comfortable doing that!

Pattern:

Body (make two):
with lcp, ch 4
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (3)
2) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc, 2sc (5)
3) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in 3 sts, 2sc (7)
4) ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
5) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in last 5 sts (6)
6) ch 1, turn, sc in 4 sts, sc2tog (5)
7) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in last 3 sts (4)
8-10) ch 1, turn, sc across (4)
11) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc, sc2tog (4)
12) ch 1, turn, sc across (4)
13-24) alternate between rows 11 and 12 (all odd rows repeat row 11, all even rows repeat row 12)
25) repeat row 10
26) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in last 3 sts (5)
27) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, 2sc (9)
28) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in last 7 sts (11)
29) ch 1, turn, sc across (11)
30) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in last 9 sts (13)
31) ch 1, turn, sc across (13)
32) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in last 11 sts (15)
33) ch 1, turn, sc across (15)
34) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in last 13 sts (17)
35) ch 1, turn, sc across (17)
36) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in 13 sts, sc2tog (18)
37) ch 1, turn, sc across (18)
38) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in 14 sts, sc2tog (19)
39) ch 1, turn, sc across (19)
40) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in last 17 sts (21)
41) ch 1, turn, sc in 19 sts, 2sc, 2sc (23)
42) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc, sc in 19 sts, sc2tog (24)
43) ch 1, turn, sc in 20 sts, sc3tog, leave last st unworked (21)
44) turn, do not ch 1, sl st into first 2 sts, sc in 17 sts, sc2tog (20, counting sl sts)
45) turn, do not ch 1, sl st, sc2tog, sc in 13 sts, sc3tog, leave last st unworked (16, counting sl sts)
46) turn, do not ch 1, sl st into first 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in 9 sts, sc2tog, leave last st unworked (13, counting sl sts)

ch 1, and work sc's around the entire perimeter of the body-- on one of the body pieces leave a suuuuper long tail for sewing them together!

Beak (make two)

with b, ch 2
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook (1)
2) ch 1, turn, 2sc (2)
3) change to w- ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc (3)
4) ch 1, turn, sc across (3)
5) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc2tog (3)
6) ch 1, turn, sc across (3)
7) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, sl st, 2hdc (5, counting sl st)

leave at least one long tail for white and black to use for sewing

Leg (make two)
(note--- I worked all my sc in the back loop only for the legs because it made it wayyyy easier)

with b, ch 6, join to 1st ch (I joined in the back loop only because it made it easier for me for the next step) to form ring

1) sc into the other side of  the ch you worked into the back loop only, (place stitch marker) then sc into the 5 remaining ch's (6)
2) sc into the first sc from the previous round (this will start your continuous rounds) and in the remaining 5 sts of the round (6)
3-24) sc around

(legs are approximately 5 inches long)

Assembly of Fiona

After all my pieces were complete I started embroidering the details onto Fiona. Like I mentioned above, I free-stitched (not sure that's a thing?) them, without drawing them, but it could help to draw them on first with an embroidery marker if you don't feel confident! I opted for a closed cute little eye with three eye lashes using the black.

Then, for the headband I first did the flowers. To make those I followed a little photo tutorial of the woven rose that I found here.

Then I just stitched in between the flowers with the green yarn.

For the wing, I used the Tropical Pink yarn and used a split stitch. You can see how to do the split stitch here.

I chose to do the details only on one side, but both sides would be fancy too!!

Next, I prepped my wire. I cut a piece approximately 42 inches long.

I made the legs first, folding 5 inches down, and twisting the wire around itself (see above photo).  Then I made another fold at the end of my first 5 inch leg, and then worked my other 5 inch leg, folding at 5 inches, still twisting the wire around itself.

Then I went up to the "torso" part with the wire, and folded it at about 7.25 inches and came back down the torso (still twisting). Then I took the last of my wire and went through the two legs and back up twisting around until I didn't have any left.

Next, I wrapped the fabric around all of my wire, gluing here and there to connect it to the wire.

Then I put my crocheted legs onto the wire legs. Then sewed up the ends so the wire wouldn't come through and then weaved in ends.

Then I connected the two beak pieces with my tails of white and black yarn.

Then I stuck the wire in between the two body pieces (lining them up to match) and pinned them together. Making sure the legs would be on the inside of the body when sewing it up. Then, using a running stitch along the outside sc's I began to sew the body pieces together (see below for beak).

After much deliberation, I decided to sew the beak into the seam of the body (you could always attach it on the outside if you preferred). I just stuck it where it looked good on the head and sewed through both the body and the beak making sure it was secure.

I did the same thing for the legs. Except for with them I decided to sew back through an extra time just for added security.

Side note-- since the legs are adjustable, you could leave them as is, or even sew them together at the spot where it bends.

After you've sewed her all up and woven in your ends, you've got a lovely little Fiona of your own!!!

She is just too precious. If you decide to make her, I'd love to see! Tag me over on Instagram :) :)

That's a wrap! Happy making, and I hope Fiona brightened your day!!! <3
-Meg 

George the Goose Crochet Pattern

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Hey-o!!!

This beautiful Saturday, I'm bringing you a pattern for George the Goose.

George came about because a) I've been really wanting to create a toy for my son b) his nickname is goose and c) I've never created a toy in my 15 plus years of crocheting! 

For some reason I've just never amused making toys, I guess I didn't really see the need. That and they do kind of intimidate me for some reason...

Which by the way, making George wasn't bad at all! I decided to make him more two-dimensional, which I think is what made him easier to create. Plus, I think that is what would make this pattern perfect for a person who is hesitant to create toys, or hasn't done so yet.

I started out by sketching how George was going to look (see below). And he actually ended up being very similar to my drawing! Success.

When I first posted George on my Instagram, I explained George to be "a simple goose, who enjoys simple things like garage sales, great conversation, goulash and the color gray". George is truly a great addition to the family--ha! 

P.S. I decided not to give George eyes, which he doesn't seem to care too much. But you could most certainly add them, I would use a drizzle stitch (see how to do it here).

Also, I couldn't decide if I liked George with his hat, so I haven't attached it yet. But I definitely included it in the pattern!

My (almost) one-year-old son approves of George. :)

What you'll need:
Size D hook (3.25 mm)
Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Aran, Carrot, Grey Heather and Red Heart with Love in Iced Aqua
Big handful of Poly Fill
Large tapestry needle

Dimensions:

From head to foot- approximately 14 inches and  5 inches at his widest

Abbreviations:
ch=chain, st(s)=stitch(es), sc=single crochet,  sl=slip, sp=space, yo=yarn over, sk=skip, sc2tog= single crochet two together, 2sc= work two single crochet in one stitch

Notes:
ch's at the beginning of the row do not count as stitches

Pattern:

Body (make two):
*using Aran*
1) ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and across (4)
2) ch 1, turn, 2 sc, sc, sc, 2sc (6)
3) ch 1, turn, sc across (6)
4) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in the next 4 sts, 2sc (8)
5-7) ch 1, turn, sc across (8)
8) ch 1, turn, sc in 6 sts, sc2tog (7)
9) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts (6)
10) ch 1, turn,  sc in 4 sts, sc2tog (5)
11) ch 1, turn, sc in 3 sts, sc2tog (4)
12) ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sts, sc2tog (3)
13-26) ch 1, turn, sc across (3)
27) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc, 2sc (5)
28) ch 1, turn, sc across (5)
29) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc (7)
30 ) ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
31) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 5 sts, 2sc (9)
32) ch 1, turn, sc across (9)
33) ch 1, turn, sc in 8 sts, 2sc (10)
34) ch 1, turn, sc across (10)
35) ch 1, turn, sc in 9 sts, 2sc (11)
36) ch 1, turn, sc across (11)
37) ch 1, turn, sc in 10 sts, 2sc (12)
38) ch 1, turn, sc across (12)
39) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc (14)
40) ch 1, turn, sc across (14)
41) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 13 sts (15)
42) ch 1, turn, sc across (15)
43) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 14 sts (16)
44) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 15 sts (17)
45) ch 1, turn, sc across (17)
46) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 16 sts (18)
47) ch 1, turn, sc across (18)
48) ch 1, turn, 2 sc, sc in next 17 sts (19)
49) ch 1, turn, sc across (19)
50) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 18 sts (20)
51) ch 1, turn, sc in 19 sts, 2sc (21)
52) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 18 sts, 2sctog (21)
53) ch 1, turn, sc in 20 sts, 2sc (22)
54) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 19 sts, sc2tog (22)
55) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 17 sts, sc2tog, sk last st (19)
56) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 15 sts, sc2tog (17)
57) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 13 sts, sc2tog (15)
58) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog (13)
59) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog (11)
60) ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog (9)
ch 1, then sc around the entire edge of the body (I did this to make the edges look more polished)

Beak (make two):
*using Carrot
1) ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook (1)
2) ch 1, turn, 2sc (2)
3) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc (4)
4) ch 1, turn, sc across (4)
5) ch 1, turn, sc in 3 sts, 2sc (5)
6-7) ch 1, turn, sc, sl st in next 3 sts, sc
ch 1, and sc around the edges (just like on the body), except sl st into the sl sts

Leg (make two):
*using Carrot*
1) ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, and across (2)
2-4) ch 1, turn, sc across (2)
5) ch 1, turn, 2sc, 2sc (4)
6) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 3 sts (5)
7) ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc (6)
8) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 5 sts (7)
9) ch 1, turn, sc in 6 sts, 2sc (8)
10) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 7 sts (9)
11) ch 1, turn, sl st in 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next 4 sts  (9)  

Shirt:
*alternate between Gray and Blue every two rows*
1) ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook, across (12)
2) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc (14)
3) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 12 sts, 2sc (16)
4) ch 1, turn, sc across (16)
5) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 14 sts, 2sc (18)
6) ch 1, turn, sc across (18)
7) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 16 sts, 2sc (20)
8) ch 1, turn, sc across (20)
9) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 18 sts, 2sc (22)
10) ch 1, turn, sc across (22)
11) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 20 sts, 2sc (24)
12) ch 1, turn, sc across (24)
13) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 22 sts, 2sc (26)
14) ch 1, turn, sc across (26)
15) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 24 sts, 2sc (28)
16) ch 1, turn, sc across (28)
17) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 26 sts, 2sc (30)
18) ch 1, turn, sc across (30)
19) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 28 sts, 2sc (32)
20) ch 1, turn, sc across (32)
21) ch 1, turn, 2sc, sc in next 30 sts, 2sc (34)
22) ch 1, turn, sc across (34)

Bowtie:
*using Gray
1) ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, across (7)
2-3) ch 1, turn, sc across (7)
to finish the bow, cinch the middle with your fingers, and wrap yarn around it tightly

Hat:
*using gray (I worked in back loop only to make it easier on me)
make magic circle
1) ch 1, work 6 sc in circle, join to ch 1 with sl st (6)
2) ch 1, work 2sc in each st around, join to ch 1 with sl st (12)
3) ch 1, (2sc, sc) around, join to ch 1 with sl st (18)
4) ch 1, sc around (18)
Pom for hat:
*using blue (I worked in back loop only to make it easier on me)
make magic circle
1) ch 1, work 4 sc in circle
2) *working in the continuous round, starting with the 1st sc from the previous round: 2 sc in each st around (8)
3) sc2tog, sc2tog, then sk the next st and sl st into the next st
finish off, leave a long tail and sew to the top of the hat

Assembling George:

First, set up the two body pieces, along with the two feet. I placed the feet where I wanted them to be, in between the two body pieces. You can pin them if you'd like to keep them in place.

Then I sewed the two body pieces together using a running stitch just inside of the outside stitches (using tapestry needle and long strand of yarn-- I had to use regular thread because I ran out of yarn, oops!). I started at the bottom and went over the legs/feet-- going over them a couple times so they're super secure. I stuffed the poly fill as I went, using my crochet hook to stuff into the neck. Make sure not to overfill or the shirt won't fit George! ha!

After George is stuffed, it's time to sew on the beak. I took the two pieces and sewed them on overlapping the larger side a little onto the body piece (see photo below). Then I sewed around the rest of the beak to connect the two pieces.

Then I sewed on George's shirt. I simply wrapped it around him, and sewed it on the back using a mattress stitch (you can see how to do the mattress stitch here). Once it was all sewed close, I sewed it to the body in a couple of places to make sure it's secure.

After that, you can sew on the bow tie at the top of his shirt as well as his hat on the top of his head! And then add on those eyes if you choose to do so! 

After you've woven in your ends, (which always sucks, lets be honest) you've got your own George the Goose!!

Enjoy!
-Meg