The Snuggle Puff Scarf - Free Crochet Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Sitting here thinking about it, I haven’t designed a scarf in ages it seems like! I can’t think of a better design to bring back the Megmade scarf game, than the new Snuggle Puff scarf. It’s a simple triangle scarf that features puff stitch edges and XL tassels at each corner. It’ll surely keep you snug (and cute!) this winter.

I really think the yarn makes this design. I fell in love with the “Theater” color scheme of Red Heart’s Roll with It Melange when I first came across it in stores, the muted , yet rich tones would be perfect for an accessory this Fall, I thought. And I believe I was right! It pairs well with any color, without being too much, ya know?

The yarn is ultra soft, and looks almost home-spun and dyed, and I think that’s another factor that drew me to it. I did struggle a bit with the yarn twisting for me as I crocheted, but have read that can be resolved if you unwind into your own ball/skein. It took two skeins (with tassels), so it makes for a very affordable project— one to possibly make as a gift this Christmas?!

I love how the little puffs line the edges of the entire scarf, it’s the perfect, yet simple detail. I decided to make a bit of a larger puff for this design, so it’d be more pronounced, since the rest of the scarf is made of half double crochets.

It really is a simple and lovely pattern to work up. Once you get the hang of it, it’ll be one of those projects you get to mindlessly work on as you watch your favorite show— aka the best kinds of projects. :) Hope you like this gem!

The Snuggle Puff Scarf

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly!***

What you’ll need:

-approximately 480-500 yards of worsted (4) weight yarn, plus 150 yards for large tassels. I used Red Heart’s Roll with It Melange in color “Theater”
-size k (6.5 mm) hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
-yarn needle
-device to make tassels (I used a piece of cardboard about 6 inches long)

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), puff st= puff stitch

Gauge:

13 hdc by 10 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:

-IMPORTANT: I yarn over extra times for the puff st in this pattern, so it’d stand out more. Here’s how I did the puff st for this scarf:

Yarn over and insert hook into specified st. Yarn over again and pull through long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same st. Yarn over again and pull through long loop) FOUR more times. Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops on your hook. (You will not ch 1 at the end of the puff st to close, like some call for in other patterns)

-ch’s at beginning of each row do not count as sts

-this scarf is worked from the bottom point - up. It’s simple to get the hang of, always increasing on each of the outside sts of each row.

-you could always add or take away rows to make the scarf a custom size

Pattern:

Row 1) ch 2, hdc in 2nd ch from hook (1 total st)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, work hdc, puff st (see notes on how I did puff st for this scarf), hdc into the 1 st (3 total sts)

Row 3) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc, work 2 hdc in last st (5 total sts)

Row 4) ch 1, turn, work puff st, hdc into 1st st, hdc across until last st, work puff st, hdc in last st (7 total sts)

Row 5) ch 1, turn, work 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc across until last st, work 2 hdc in last st (9 total sts)

***from here until the last row (row 70), you will be repeating instructions from rows 4 and 5, and your st count will increase 2 sts with each row

Row 6) repeat instructions from row 4 (11 total sts)
Row 7) repeat instructions from row 5 (13 total sts)
Row 8) repeat instructions from row 4 (15 total sts)
Row 9) repeat instructions from row 5 (17 total sts)
Row 10) repeat instructions from row 4 (19 total sts)
Row 11) repeat instructions from row 5 (21 total sts)
Row 12) repeat instructions from row 4 (23 total sts)
Row 13) repeat instructions from row 5 (25 total sts)
Row 14) repeat instructions from row 4 (27 total sts)
Row 15) repeat instructions from row 5 (29 total sts)
Row 16) repeat instructions from row 4 (31 total sts)
Row 17) repeat instructions from row 5 (33 total sts)
Row 18) repeat instructions from row 4 (35 total sts)
Row 19) repeat instructions from row 5 (37 total sts)
Row 20) repeat instructions from row 4 (39 total sts)
Row 21) repeat instructions from row 5 (41 total sts)
Row 22) repeat instructions from row 4 (43 total sts)
Row 23) repeat instructions from row 5 (45 total sts)
Row 24) repeat instructions from row 4 (47 total sts)
Row 25) repeat instructions from row 5 (49 total sts)
Row 26) repeat instructions from row 4 (51 total sts)
Row 27) repeat instructions from row 5 (53 total sts)
Row 28) repeat instructions from row 4 (55 total sts)
Row 29) repeat instructions from row 5 (57 total sts)
Row 30) repeat instructions from row 4 (59 total sts)
Row 31) repeat instructions from row 5 (61 total sts)
Row 32) repeat instructions from row 4 (63 total sts)
Row 33) repeat instructions from row 5 (65 total sts)
Row 34) repeat instructions from row 4 (67 total sts)
Row 35) repeat instructions from row 5 (69 total sts)
Row 36) repeat instructions from row 4 (71 total sts)
Row 37) repeat instructions from row 5 (73 total sts)
Row 38) repeat instructions from row 4 (75 total sts)
Row 39) repeat instructions from row 5 (77 total sts)
Row 40) repeat instructions from row 4 (79 total sts)
Row 41) repeat instructions from row 5 (81 total sts)
Row 42) repeat instructions from row 4 (83 total sts)
Row 43) repeat instructions from row 5 (85 total sts)
Row 44) repeat instructions from row 4 (87total sts)
Row 45) repeat instructions from row 5 (89 total sts)
Row 46) repeat instructions from row 4 (91 total sts)
Row 47) repeat instructions from row 5 (93 total sts)
Row 48) repeat instructions from row 4 (95 total sts)
Row 49) repeat instructions from row 5 (97 total sts)
Row 50) repeat instructions from row 4 (99 total sts)
Row 51) repeat instructions from row 5 (101 total sts)
Row 52) repeat instructions from row 4 (103 total sts)
Row 53) repeat instructions from row 5 (105 total sts)
Row 54) repeat instructions from row 4 (107 total sts)
Row 55) repeat instructions from row 5 (109 total sts)
Row 56) repeat instructions from row 4 (111 total sts)
Row 57) repeat instructions from row 5 (113 total sts)
Row 58) repeat instructions from row 4 (115 total sts)
Row 59) repeat instructions from row 5 (117 total sts)
Row 60) repeat instructions from row 4 (119 total sts)
Row 61) repeat instructions from row 5 (121 total sts)
Row 62) repeat instructions from row 4 (123 total sts)
Row 63) repeat instructions from row 5 (125 total sts)
Row 64) repeat instructions from row 4 (127 total sts)
Row 65) repeat instructions from row 5 (129 total sts)
Row 66) repeat instructions from row 4 (131 total sts)
Row 67) repeat instructions from row 5 (133 total sts)
Row 68) repeat instructions from row 4 (135 total sts)
Row 69) repeat instructions from row 5 (137 total sts)

Row 70) ch 1, turn, work puff st, hdc into 1st st, then [puff st, hdc] across row until last st, work puff st, hdc in last st (139 total sts)

finish off, weave in ends

How to make tassels:

To make my tassels, I used a 3” x 6” (approximately) piece of cardboard, and wrapped my yarn around length-wise. I wanted the tassels to be pretty bulky, so I wrapped around quite a bit.

Once the tassel was my desired thickness, I cut my yarn from the skein, and slid it off the cardboard. I slipped a 20 inch or so piece of yarn through the middle of the top of the tassel and tied a loose knot (this is for attaching to the scarf). Then I used another 20 inch piece of yarn and wrapped it around the outside of the tassel, about an inch or so down from the top (see above photo). I tied a couple of knots, then wrapped it around again, then a couple more knots.

To finish the tassel, I chopped the ends of it, trimming it up to make it nice and even. Then I tied a tighter double-knot with the top strand of yarn (that ran through the middle of the tassel), and attached it to one of the corners of my scarf. I chose to tie multiple knots using the strands of yarn, making sure it was extra secure.

Make two more tassels and attach to the other two corners. Then weave in your ends. After that, you are doneeeee!!

What a fun and simple little accessory to make for these cooler months! I love how this yarn’s color changes really make the scarf. Hope you enjoy this pattern, and look forward to seeing it on Insta! (Tag me @megmadewithlove so I can looksie)

Happy hooking!
Meg

Crochet Cross-Body Bag - Free Crochet Pattern

Who says crochet has to look handmade? I mean… I don’t! I love trying to whip up designs that look tasteful and professional— and this one totally fits the bill. It’s the perfect cross-body purse… and pairing it with a beautiful suede leather and antique brass notions? Possibly my favorite combo yet 😏

The actual bag itself is made up using the waistcoat (or knit) stitch, and creates a super simple texture that I love. And the fact that it’s made with super bulky yarn means incredibly fast work-up. Holla!

In this post you’ll get the pattern for the bag, along with a full photo tutorial showing how I assembled this entire bag. Yup, it’s a lot! But I wanted to give you as much help as possible for creating this beauty yourself.

What I think is so fun about this bag is that it could be so customizable. You could personalize it to your own style very easily.

Don’tcha love the lovely vintage floral fabric lining? Found my fabric at Joanns, and I love how it pairs with the olive colored yarn.

I hope this is a bag you get to create! I’m excited to switch all my stuff over into it, and wear it proudly. Oh and can’t forget about the fun part: answering, “hey thanks, I made it!” when people compliment it. 😉

What you’ll need:

For the crocheted purse only:
-approximately 130 yards of 6 weight super bulky yarn, I used Yarn Bee Astounding in Olive (3 skeins)
-10mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
-stitch marker
-yarn needle with large eye

For the assembly of the purse, as I did it:
-8.5” x 11” piece of suede leather (linked here). I also used a piece of Pellon fabric stabilizer Ultra Firm (one side fusible), also 8.5” x 11”, to make the top leather piece more sturdy. You can find this at any fabric store.
-1/3 yard of fabric of choice to line bag, optional
-iron
-all purpose cement or strong glue, and paint brush. I found this one by the leather crafts
-bag closure of some sort, and pliers to tighten them. I used this press lock in antique brass. I will say I’m kinda disappointed by how difficult it is to unlock this particular one, but it’s already installed sooo.. yeah. Just thought I’d tell you which one I used, perhaps for an example if nothing else
-sewing machine with heavy duty needle, sewing pins, needle, thread that matches bag/fabric color
-d rings to attach to purse strap, I used these antique brass ones
-approximately 3.5-4 feet chain for strap (found at hardware store)
-jump ring/lobster clasp to attach strap to d rings, I used these
-super glue
-rotary hole punch or awl, I used this rotary punch

Finished Measurements:

Approximately 11” wide, 9” tall, and bottom (depth) is 2” wide

Gauge:

7 sc (regular, not waistcoat stitch) by 7 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:

-this bag is worked starting at the base, which is an oval, then worked upward in the continuous round

-the stitches are worked in the bottom part of the sc, in between the little v of each stitch (the post), not in the two loops on top you usually work in (this is called the waistcoat stitch, or knit stitch), see photo below for assistance on where to insert hook

Pattern:

—-oval purse bottom:

Round 1) ch 15, then work 2 sc in BLO of 2nd ch from hook, then sc into BLO of next 12 ch, work 2 sc in BLO of last ch. Next you’ll be working into the other side of the chain you just worked into (the front loops), see photo below for assistance. work 2 sc in 1st ch (of other side), sc into next 12 ch, 2sc in last ch (32 total sts)

**At this point you will be working in continuous rounds, using a stitch marker on the first st of the round will help.

Round 2) (***working all sts into the post of each sc from prior round, doing the waistcoat st, see photo in notes for assistance) starting into 1st st of round 1: work 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next four sts, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in last two sts (40 total sts)

—-now moving onto the top portion of the purse

Round 3) sc in BLO of each st around, NOT working into the bottom post (40 total sts)

Rounds 4 - 19) (***working all sts into the post of each sc from prior round, doing waistcoat st) sc in each st around (40 total sts)

to finish off, sl st into top two loops of next st and weave in ends

—-assembly of purse

I’m just showing how I made it, there’s tons of ways you could finish off this purse!

Since my leather piece wasn’t as sturdy as I’d like, I decided to add some stabilizer to the back of it, along with fabric behind it.

So I cut my fabric stabilizer a hair smaller than the leather, and then cut my fabric 1/2 inch bigger for sewing. Then working with only the stabilizer and the fabric, I fused the two together, fusible side to the wrong side of the fabric.

Next I folded my fabric over the stabilizer, ironed it, then sewed it with my sewing machine about 1/4 inch from the edge.

Then I adhered the fabric + stabilizer to the leather piece (wrong sides together) by using the all purpose cement + brush, and let it dry. Make sure the area is well-ventilated, it’s strong! Then I sewed the fused fabric to the leather with my sewing machine, using the stitches of the fabric as my guideline (you’ll need a heavier duty needle, since it’s so much material).

Next you’ll use your rotary punch, and make holes where you’re going to attach the leather to the bag (this will be the back side). Align the leather piece onto your crocheted bag and see where you’d like it to be, then make holes about 1/4 inch from the edge (I used the sewing stitches as my guideline). The holes will need to be big enough for your yarn needle and yarn to go through. (I was thinking you could even put holes around the entire piece of leather, and sew around the edges of the front also if you liked the look, I really considered doing it!)

Set your leather piece up how you’d like it on your purse, then you’re ready to sew them together (using yarn needle and extra long piece of yarn) Come up from the inside of the crocheted purse, through the hole, then over the edge of the leather piece and back down into the purse. Repeat around the entire “back side” to attach your leather to the purse. Then, to finish off, tie a couple knots on the back sides of the leather, and weave in your ends into the crocheted purse.

Next you’ll want to set your bag closure (I used a press lock). Depending on what kind you have, you’ll probably need to create holes to connect it to the middle of the leather piece, like shown in photo above. For mine, I decided where it should be by closing the leather over the top, eye balling where the top of the press lock should be set so the bag would close securely— then I punched holes where the prongs laid on the leather piece. I inserted the prongs into the holes, then tighten with pliers. Since the crocheted purse already has “holes” in between each stitch, I just lined it up where the bag would close, and inserted the prongs of the bottom part of the press lock into the stitches of the bag, then tightened with pliers again.

Next up is the bag lining. I cut two pieces of fabric that were 12” by 9”, and one piece that was 12” by 2.5” (allowing for seams). You could really just account for the smaller piece and make this all one big piece if you wanted, I just thought I’d make a “bottom” to the lining. I first sewed the pieces together with sewing machine, like shown in the photo above to make one big piece (sew right sides together).

Once I had one big piece for the lining, I folded it in half like shown in the photo above. Then sewed the side closed with my sewing machine.

For the top seam of the lining, I made a line, one inch from the top of the lining. Then I folded over the top to match up with the line, then ironed and sewed it about 1/4 inch from the edge with my sewing machine.

Next you’re ready to sew the lining into the crocheted bag. I lined up the lining one row below the very top of the bag, then pinned them together.

Now you’re ready to hand-sew the lining in. Grab a long strand of sewing thread and needle. You will be using the seam of the lining as a guideline for your hand stitches. I started by going in through the crocheted bag, and into the back of the lining, coming up on the seam of the lining.

When I sewed, I made a running stitch along the seam guideline, and through the crocheted bag. I didn’t go all the way through to the outside of the bag, just through the middle of the stitches of the crocheted bag because I didn’t want it to show on the outside. I made multiple rounds, hand stitching around the top of the lining, making sure it was stable and all sewed. Make sure not to pull too tightly or the fabric will bunch up. I finished off through the back of the fabric, tied a couple of knots then weaved into the crochet purse a bit.

Then I sewed on my d ring on the sides of the purse using yarn needle and piece of yarn, these hold the strap, so they need to be super secure to the bag.

For my cross-body strap, I took the chain, and wove the yarn in and out of it using my yarn needle. For the ends, I came back through one chain, then tied and knot and put a couple of drops of super glue to secure. I loved the look of the two materials together!

I connected the strap to the purse using the jump ring/lobster clasps. I attached the ring to the chain, then clipped the clasp onto the d ring that was sewed onto the purse.

Whew! And that, my friend, is the conclusion of this tutorial! I know it looks like a lot, but truly.. focusing on one step at a time makes it totally doable. And you could even add so many more things to the bag, like tassels, buttons, studs… possibilities=endless. It’s fun to personalize things to make them “you”. Hope you like this design, it is one I’m very proud of completing. If you make one, be sure to tag me over on Insta!

Happy hooking my friends!
Meg