Ten MINIMALIST (+ Free) Crochet Patterns

If you’re anything like me, you’re all about keeping things MINIMAL. I dunno, something about simple stuff just brings me such peace— and joy! It’s easy on the eyes, plus keeps your mind uncluttered. So I’ve gathered up some of my favorite minimalistic crochet patterns (all free!) and they’ve checked all the boxes: whether it be monochromatic, a simple stitch series or a flat out easy design… I think every one of these projects would make the minimalist’s heart go pitter patter! :)

Baby Pig Crochet Toy - Free Crochet Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down within this post.***

Woohoo! I am so pleased to bring you a little piggy pattern here on the blog today! This has got to be the cuddliest lil’ toy you could ever make (made with velvet yarn), plusssss I made this one for my one-year-old niece this Christmas, and I’m not exaggerating when I say there was squealing, clapping and extensive hugging involved.

I am so happy this piggy toy turned out as imagined (actually based of a rough sketch on a scratch piece of paper during dinner one night!). I think it’s just simply cute. And if you know me at all simple and cute are two of my favorite things!

The pattern for lil’ piggy includes lots of pics for assistance on the assembly, in hopes to make your life easier! And I actually think it works up fairly quickly because of the bulkiness of the yarn.

It’s made with the buttery-soft Bernat Baby Velvet yarn, which by the way when I saw it in the store, I knew it had to be used for this project. It’s unreal how soft it is.

Most important of all, I think this pig made the perfect gift. I hope the child (or adult?!) in your life gets some joy out of this gem if you make it for them.

Baby Pig Crochet Toy Pattern

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern by clicking HERE. Ad-free, and printer-friendly! For the free version, scroll down.***

What you’ll need:

-Approximately 250 yards of a velvety worsted weight (category 4) yarn, I used Bernat Baby Velvet in color “Bunny Brown”... online this color looks light beige, but the skein I picked up in my local Joann’s was rose colored, so not sure if this is normal or not

-4mm (G) hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

-12 oz bag of polyester fiberfill

-safety eyes

-yarn needle

-any black yarn to make the nostrils

-fleece fabric for scarf or any other accessories you may want

-safety pins

Gauge:

16 hdc by 12 rows = four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch=chain, hdc=half double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), hdc2tog=half double crochet two together, sl=slip, dc=double crochet, tr=treble crochet, BLO=back loop only

Notes:

-the measurements for the pig are approximately 18” from top to toe, and body is about 6” wide

-pattern is for an intermediate crocheter

-chains at beginning of rounds do not count as stitches

-I found that by skipping the first st of each round and working the last st into the space where the previous row’s sl st to join, made the seam a little more inconspicuous

Pattern:

——HEAD & BODY——
(worked from top of the head-down)

Round 1) make magic circle, ch 1, work 10 hdc into circle, join to 1st st with sl st, pull yarn tail to close up the circle (10 total sts)

Round 2) ch 1, work 2 hdc into each st around, join to 1st st with sl st (20 total sts)

Round 3) ch 1, [2 hdc, hdc in next st] around, join to 1st st with sl st (30 total sts)

Round 4) ch 1, [2 hdc, hdc in next two sts] around, join to 1st st with sl st (40 total sts)

Round 5) ch 1, [2 hdc, hdc in next three sts] around, join to 1st st with sl st (50 total sts)

Rounds 6-17) ch 1, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (50 total sts)

Round 18) ch 1, [hdc2tog, hdc in next three sts] around, join to 1st st with sl st (40 total sts)

Round 19) ch 1, [hdc2tog, hdc in next two sts] around, join to 1st st with sl st (30 total sts)

Round 20) ch 1, [hdc2tog, hdc in next st] around, join to 1st st with sl st (20 total sts)

Round 21) repeat round 3

Round 22) repeat round 4

Rounds 23-26) ch 1, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (40 total sts)

Round 27) repeat round 5

Rounds 28-41) ch 1, hdc around join to 1st st with sl st (50 total sts)

Round 42) repeat round 18

Round 43) repeat round 19

finish off, and you can leave an extra long tail to sew on the legs

——LEGS (make two)——
(worked from top to toe)

Round 1) ch 16, join to 1st ch with sl st to form circle, hdc in same ch you sl st into and around, join to 1st st with sl st (16 total sts)

Rounds 2-16) ch 1, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (16 total sts)

Round 17) ch 1, [sl st, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sl st] work [ ] two times, join to 1st st with sl st (16 total sts)

finish off, and leave long strand to sew the end shut. Pinch the end of the legs closed, and sew with yarn needle along the edges with a whip stitch, I also chose to run my needle in between the taller stitches from round 17 so there wouldn’t be any gaps.

——ARMS (make two) ——
(worked from top to end of hoof)

Round 1) ch 13, join to 1st ch with sl st to form circle, hdc in same ch you sl st into, and hdc into next 2 ch, dc in next two sts, tr in next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in last 3 sts (13 total sts)

Rounds 2-16) ch 1, hdc around, join to 1st st with sl st (13 total sts)

Round 17) ch 1, sl st, hdc, tr, tr, hdc, sl st in next 3 sts, hdc, tr, tr, hdc, sl st, join to 1st st with sl st (13 total sts)

finish off, and leave long strand to sew the end shut. Pinch the end of the arms closed, and sew with yarn needle along the edges with a whip stitch, I also chose to run my needle in between the taller stitches from round 17 so there wouldn’t be any gaps.

——SNOUT——

Round 1) make magic circle, ch 1, work 10 hdc into circle, join to 1st st with sl st, pull yarn tail to close up the circle (10 total sts)

Round 2) ch 1, work 2 hdc into each st around, join to 1st st with sl st (20 total sts)

Round 3) ch 1, [2 hdc, hdc in next st] around, join to 1st st with sl st (30 total sts)

finish off, and leave long tail to sew the snout onto the head

——EARS (make two)——
(you can refer to the diagram below for assistance)

ch 11,

WORKING INTO BLO OF CH’S: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st into next two ch, hdc into next two ch, dc into next two ch, tr into next two ch, in last ch work: tr, dc dc

FROM THERE YOU WILL BE WORKING INTO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CH’S (the loops unworked, starting with the ch closest to your hook): work dc, dc, tr into the first ch, tr into the next two ch, dc into the next two ch, hdc into the next two ch, and sl st into the last 3 ch, join to 1st sl st with sl st

finish off

Assembly:

to begin the assembly of the pig you will grab your head/body piece and snout.

To attach the snout to the head, you’ll figure out where you’d like it placed on the head and begin sewing along the outer edge of the snout, inserting your needle like in the photo above (into both the snout and the head). I didn’t sew over the edge of the snout because I wanted it to be more defined. Before you make it all the way around, stuff a bit of polyfill into the snout to make it stick out a bit, then finish sewing around.

To add the nostrils grab a long strand of black yarn, plus yarn needle and make a line spanning the length of the 1st round of the snout (a little less than an inch), keep drawing your yarn through until it’s the thickness you’d like. Make two nostrils about 1/2 inch apart.

Then you can add your eyes, I placed mine to the side of the top of the snout about 1/2 inch. Then you will add on the ears. To attach the ears, first fold up the rounded, wider side of the ear like in the photo above. You’ll be sewing this bottom folded part to your head.

Place the ear at your desired location, I chose to the top of the ear about round 6 (you could pin the ear on to help you stabilize it while sewing). Then using a long strand of yarn and needle, sew the folded part of the ear to the head. I just sewed all around, making sure it was extra secure, because ya know… kids. Do this for both ears.

Next you’ll stuff the head/body piece plum full of fiberfill, I found it helpful to take small pieces of the fiberfill and spread it apart with my fingers a bit then stuff it in, so the pig wouldn’t get lumpy. At this point you will also stuff both legs and arms full of fiberfill also (you can use a wooden dowel to put the fiberfill in the arms and legs).

Now you’ll attach the legs. Take the body piece and pin the middle closed about an inch and a half (making holes on both sides big enough for the legs to be sewn onto).

Then using needle and yarn tail, you can sew each leg on. I inserted my needle like in the photo above, doing a whip stitch along the edges of the leg and the body. I went all the way around the leg, multiple times, making extra sure it was secure, and looked nice and seamless.

Once done with the first leg, sew your way down the middle portion you pinned on the body, and sew the other leg on, going around multiple times.

Next up is the arms. You will be attaching them with the longer side-up (see above photo). This is so the arms lay down a bit, not just straight out.

You will be attaching the arms just like the legs, whip stitching over the arm and into the body then back into the arm. Go around as many times as needed to be secure and look seamless.

After both arms are sewn on, and ends woven in, add a scarf (or maybe a cute dress, hat or bow tie?!) and you’ve got yourself one love-able little piggy!

Hope this piggy gets to bring whoever receives it lots of joy! Even if that person is you! Teehee. Feel free to share your version with me over on Instagram, I’d love to admire.

Take care and happy hooking!
Meg