Free Crochet Pattern for the Cabled Throw Pillow

Are you sick of seeing pillows yet?! 😂 Cuz lemme tell ya, I feel like I could design pillows for daysssss (don't fret, this is the last one for a bit, ha!). Today I've got the last design of the pillow series, and it's a cute one. I love the simplicity of this little throw that features a line of cables going down the middle-- I think it'd make the perfect finishing touch to any bedding set!

Speaking of bed sets... the pillow that goes inside this crocheted cover was actually from a previous set I had, and I really just didn't like the look of it.. it had some embroidered flowers on it that were just, blegh. Now, me being the thrifty gal I am I took it as a challenge to see what I could come up with to be able to reuse it. And then comes the idea of doing a cabled throw pillow! 

I think it fits in perfectly with the two previous pillows (see the Funky Fringe Pillow here and the Cottage Pillow here). All were made with Main Street Yarns Shiny + Soft, and the color scheme is perfect for my home! (they've got lots of good colors to choose from)

I'd like to think the cables on this puppy are actually quite simple... They may look intricate but it's actually a very easy repeat of rows! I took plenty of photos for assistance too.

I was a bit doubtful about the tassels when I was putting them on, but ended up really liking this addition! It ties in with the tassels of the Crochet Cottage Pillow really well. It'd even look good with some fringe too! The back side of the pillow is designed with three buttons & button holes, mostly to make washing easier. You could even rock the back side-out too, I think it looks nice too!

What you'll need:

-Approx. 450 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used two skeins of Main Street Yarns Shiny + Soft in Tweed Grey, linked HERE.. I loved working with this yarn! I also used this yarn for the other pillows of the series this month-- I'm a fan)

-size H hook (5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

-10x18 pre-made pillow

-yarn needle

-sewing pins

-needle and thread (for buttons)

-3 one-inch buttons

Gauge:

16 sc by 19 rows equals a four-inch square

Abbreviations:

ch('s)=chain(s), sc=single crochet, st(s)=stitch(es), fpdc=front post double crochet, sk=skip, fptr=front post treble crochet

Notes:

-ch's at beginning of rows do not count as stitches

-pattern is written in US terms

-the pillow is worked in 3 panels: one front panel containing the cables, and two back panels-- one with button holes. This is so it can be removed to wash. You could always make two front panels if you wanted and just sew it closed around the pillow.

-I write it out in the pattern, but I thought a helpful note would be that all the odd rows of the front panel are "sc across" rows. 

-when you're working the post stitches (fpdc, fptr) you are working into the post stitches from two rows back, in other words you are skipping past the sc row you just did and working a row below it into the previous row's post stitches.

-below are photos I reference in the pattern:

PHOTO A

PHOTO B

PHOTO C

PHOTO D

PHOTO E

Pattern:

Front Cabled Panel:

Row 1) ch 39, sc into 2nd ch from hook, and across (38 total sts, and for remainder of panel)

Row 2) ch 1, turn, sc into first 13 sts, fpdc into next 12 sts, sc into last 13 sts

Row 3) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Row 4) (**remember you are working the fptr's of this row into the fpdc's from two rows back**) ch 1, turn, sc into first 13 sts, sk the first 3 fpdc, then fptr into next 3 sts, working BEHIND the 3 fptr you just worked: fptr into the 3 skipped fpdc's (see PHOTO A in notes), sk the next 3 unworked fpdc's, then fptr into last 3 fpdc (PHOTO B), working IN FRONT of 3 fptr's you just worked: fptr into the 3 skipped fpdc's (PHOTO C), ***at this point, to know where to work the next stitch, you can turn your work over and count the st's you skipped to see where the first sc should go-- you will have skipped 12 total sts, see PHOTO D for assistance*** sc in last 13 sts

Row 5) ch 1, turn sc across row

Row 6) ch 1, turn, sc into first 13 sts, fpdc into next 12 post sts from two rows back (working right to left, see PHOTO E for assistance), sc in last 13 sts

Row 7) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Row 8) repeat row 6

Row 9) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Row 10) repeat row 6

Row 11) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Rows 12-91) repeat rows 4-11 ten times

Finish off, and leave an extra long tail for sewing the pillow together

Back Panel 1 (with button holes):

Row 1) ch 39, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (38 total sts, and for remainder of panel)

Rows 2-44) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Row 45) ch 1, turn, (sc into 7 sts, ch 3, sk 3 sts) 3 times, sc into last 8 sts

Row 46) ch 1, turn, sc across (working sc's into ch's from previous row)

Rows 47-48) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Finish off

Back Panel 2:

Row 1) ch 39, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (38 total sts, and for remainder of panel)

Rows 2-48) ch 1, turn, sc across row

Finish off

Assembly:

To start the assembly of your pillow, lay out your front panel, right side facing up. Then you'll place the two back panels on top of the front panel, putting the back panel that has button holes BELOW the other. You'll align all the outside edges, and let the two back panels overlap in the center.

You'll align all the outside edges, and let the two back panels overlap in the center. Then you can pin all your pieces together so they don't shift around while sewing.

Using your yarn needle and the extra long tail of yarn, sew around the entire perimeter of the panels. I used a whip stitch along the very edge. Also be sure to go through all three panels in the center where they all overlap. 

Once your pillow is sewn all the way around, you can weave in your ends then turn it right-side out. Then it's onto adding the buttons. You'll sew your three buttons onto the back panel under the one with the button holes in it. I just placed them in alignment with where each button hole was and sewed them on with needle and thread.

After all buttons are attached, the pillow is complete! You may choose to add fringe or tassels to the ends. Or it even looks nice without any extra stuff :)

What a fun pillow series this was... feel free to tag me over on Insta if you make any of these pillows for yourself! They add the perfect amount of cozy to any room if ya ask me :) 

Take care and happy hookin'!

Meg

Free Pattern for the Crochet Cottage Pillow

The second installment of the pillow series I'm doing this month is heeeere!! The Crochet Cottage Pillow is a simple and elegant design, that was actually inspired by a pillow from Home Goods I saw. It offers lovely texture, plus lacy detail to reveal the color of your pillow insert--I thought it'd even be pretty cool to play with contrasting colors.

The pillow is worked in two panels, in the round.. and I found once you get the hang of the repeat, you can totally just absentmindedly work on this project while watching a movie/show-- score! I chose to put big ol' tassels on each corner, but any little add-on would be cool. Maybe even some fringe on two sides? Mini tassels? 

The Crochet Cottage Pillow compliments the first pillow of the series (find it here) better than I could have expected. Both were designed using the Main Street Yarns Shiny + Soft yarn from loveknitting.com, and I've loved using it. I've got one more pillow coming using this yarn-- and talk about a great yarn to work with.. affordable and so darn soft and fluffy!

This pillow would make super cute throw pillows for your bed or even on an entryway bench. Actually, I think it's down-to-earth elegance would bring a great, soft touch to any room!

What you'll need:

-approximately 450 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used 2 skeins of Main Street Yarns, Shiny + Soft in "Off White")

-h hook (5 mm)

-yarn needle

-18 x 18 inch pre-made pillow

Dimensions:

finished pillow measures approx 18 x 18 inches

Abbreviations:

mc=magic circle, ch('s)=chain(s), st(s)=stitch(es), tr=treble, beg=beginning, sl=slip, ps=puff stitch (explanation in notes), sp=space, dc=double crochet, sk=skip, sp('s)=space(s)

Gauge:

14 dc by 8 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:

Difficulty: Intermediate

-I will specify in the pattern if ch's count as stitches or not

-pillow is worked in rounds from the center-- made of two panels that are sewn together.

-I wrote out every round's instructions, but there is a repetitive pattern that increases each row. Below is a photo showing you that all the "netted" sections that have an "x" on them are what's being increased each row. You are increasing by one (dc + "ch 1", sk 1) in each of these sections. I say this to hopefully make things easier for you, so that eventually you won't even need to follow the pattern and just know how to increase.

puff stitch: 1) yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch 2)Repeat the previous step three times- you will have nine loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all nine loops

-this pillow pattern is not solid-- meaning you will see through some of the "holes" to the pillow you insert into it. I think it'd be fun to play with contrasting colors!

-below is a photo showing where to work the first dc after rounding a corner:

-below shows the dc worked in the spot:

Pattern:

Make two:

Round 1) mc, ch 7 (counts as tr + ch 3), [tr into mc, ch 3] 7 times, join to 4th chain from beg of round with sl st (total 8 tr, 8 "ch 3" sp's)

Round 2) sl st into the 1st "ch 3" sp, ch 2 (does not count as st), ps into same "ch 3" sp, ch 5, [ps in next ch 3 sp, ch 5] 7 times, join to 1st ps with sl st (total 8 ps, 8 "ch 5" sp's)

Round 3) sl st over to 1st "ch 5" sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 5 dc in same "ch 5" sp, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, [work 6 dc in next "ch 5" sp, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 24 dc, 8 ps)

Round 4) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk next ch, dc, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round (see pic in notes for where this st is worked), ch 1, [dc into next 6 sts, ch 1, sk next ch, dc, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, ch 1, sk next ch] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 32 dc, 8 ps)

Round 5) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 2 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, ch 1, sk next ch, dc, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 2 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, ch 1, sk next ch, dc, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 40 dc, 8 ps)

Round 6) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 3 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 2 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 3 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 2 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 48 dc, 8 ps)

Round 7) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 4 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 3 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 4 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 3 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 56 dc, 8 ps)

Round 8) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 5 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 4 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 5 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 4 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 64 dc, 8 ps)

Round 9) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 6 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 5 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 6 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 5 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 72 dc, 8 ps)

Round 10) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 7 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 6 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 7 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 6 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 80 dc, 8 ps)

Round 11) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 8 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 7 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 8 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 7 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 88 dc, 8 ps)

Round 12) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 9 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 8 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 9 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 8 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 96 dc, 8 ps)

Round 13) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 10 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 9 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 10 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 9 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 104 dc, 8 ps)

Round 14) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 11 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 10 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 11 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 10 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 112 dc, 8 ps)

Round 15) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 12 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 11 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 12 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 11 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 120 dc, 8 ps)

Round 16) ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts, [ch 1, sk next ch, dc] 13 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 12 times, ch 1, sk next ch, [dc into next 6 sts, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 13 times, ch 2, all in next "ch 5" sp: (ps, ch 5, ps), ch 2, dc into ch on top of next ps from prev round, (ch 1, sk next ch, dc) 12 times, ch 1, sk st] 3 times, join to 3rd ch from beg of round with sl st (total 128 dc, 8 ps)

Finish off (make two). You can leave an extra long tail to sew the edges together on one of them.

Assembly:

**IMPORTANT! Before you sew up your pillow-- weave in all ends. Because you're sewing it closed, and won't be able to get to them. To assemble, place the panels together, one on top of the other, lining everything up.

Decide which side you'd like to be the "right" side, then place the right sides together (the back side of your panels will show the puff stitches a little more pronounced... but in my opinion both sides look great, and it doesn't really matter). You may choose to pin them together to hold while sewing. Then using yarn needle and long yarn tail, sew around the perimeter of the two panels using a whip stitch along the very edges-- STOP when you get to the last side of the pillow so you can put your pillow into the crocheted panels.

If you chose a specific side to be the "right side", turn your crocheted piece right side out. Then you'll stuff in your pillow...

You can now sew up that last side to enclose your pillow using the same whip stitch you were using for the rest of the sides. 

Finish off, and weave in your end. Add tassels/poms/fringe to your hearts content to finish off your pillow! Or leave it plain.. it totally looks good that way too.

I hope this pillow fulfilled all your cozy cottage desires, I know it did for me! If you make one of your own, do please tag me over on Insta, because I'd love to admire it. :) The last pillow of the series should be up in a week, so keep an eye out.. I've really had so much fun with these-- if you have another series idea you'd like me to do, do share! I'd love to hear it...

Take care!
Meg