Free Crochet Pattern for the Pillow Cardigan

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in the shop by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing!***

So I’m pretty stoked to bring today’s pattern to you, mooooostly because I was able to team up with Red Heart and use their amazing yarn, Chic Sheep by Marly Bird! This yarn made the perfect material for what I’m calling the “Pillow Cardigan”… a cozy sweater—but for your pillow. ha!

It features such a great textured stitch pattern, with a ribbed center that holds four oversized buttons. It’s so simple, yet so lovely! And the best part?? It’s worked up in one piece— yessssssss.

I think what makes this pillow, though, is the yarn. You guys. If you haven’t tried out Chic Sheep yet… you’ve gotta. I think what sets it apart from other big brand yarns is the luxurious feel of it. It is hands down the sleekest yarn I’ve used. You can tell when working with it, that it’s such good quality. It’s 100% superwash merino wool, and washable— hayyyyy! Another thing I noticed while working with Chic Sheep was the “bounce” it had to it. Like it seemed really springy and squishy. Does that make sense?! lol

This project is actually a part of a blogger tour that features lots of amazing projects created with Chic Sheep by other super talented designers! You can read more about the tour HERE and swoon over all the other awesome designs. There’s lots of great garments and accessories in the lineup!

I chose to use the color “Linen”, which is exactly what I used for The Slopes Headband this past Winter. There’s such a nice selection of colors for this yarn too… a good mix of vibrant tones plus some good neutral options.

I hope you enjoy making this pillow cardi! It’s sure to cozy up any corner of your home :)

What you’ll need:

-worsted weight (4) yarn, approximately 700 yards (for this project I used four skeins of Red Heart Chic Sheep in color “Linen”, linked HERE)

-size i (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge

-18 x 18 inch pillow insert

-four 1 3/8 - 1 1/2 inch buttons (the ones I used can be found HERE)

-thread for buttons

-yarn needle

-sewing pins

Finished Dimensions:

Pillow cover measures approximately 16.5” x 17”

Gauge:

15 hdc by 12 rows equals a four inch square

Abbreviations:

ch(‘s)=chain(s), hdc=half double crochet, BLO= back loop only, sc=single crochet, sk=skip, dc=double crochet, st(s)=stitch(es)

Notes:

-pattern is written in US terms

-whether or not ch’s count as sts will be clarified in the pattern

-the pillow cover is worked up in one piece, starting with the ribbing (that includes button holes) then working sts along the long side of the ribbing. It’s designed to wrap around the pillow and be buttoned in the center, then the two sides are sewn.

-the finished cover measures a tad smaller than the 18” pillow, but since it stretches it fits nicely

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in the shop by clicking HERE. Great for easy printing!***

Pattern:

-Ribbing (chains at the beginning of ribbing rows do not count as st):

Row 1) ch 9, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (8 total sts)

Rows 2 - 10) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (8 total sts)

Row 11) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO of first 2 sts, ch 4, sk 4 sts, hdc in BLO of last 2 sts (4 total sc, 4 total ch’s)

Rows 12 - 23) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (8 total sts)

Row 24) repeat instructions from row 11

Rows 25 - 36) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (8 total sts)

Row 37) repeat instructions from row 11

Rows 38 - 49) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (8 total sts)

Row 50) repeat instructions from row 11

Rows 51 - 60) ch 1, turn, hdc in BLO across row (8 total sts)

-do not finish off

-Body of the pillow

Row 1) to begin the body of the pillow you will start by working into the side of the ribbing, from where you left off in row 60. You will ch 1 (does not count as st), then work one sc into the side of each row of the ribbing, working sc’s all along the long side of ribbing. You can see a visual of this in the photo below. (60 total sc’s)

Row 2) ch 1 (counts as sc), sk first st, dc, [sk next st, work 1 sc and 1 dc in next st] across until last st of row— in that last st, only work 1 sc, not a dc (59 total sts)

Rows 3 - 135) ch 1 (counts as sc), dc in first st, [sk next st, work 1 sc and 1 dc in next st] across until last st of row— in that last st, only work 1 sc, not a dc (59 total sts)

-Finish off

Assembly:

To assemble your pillow cover, you will fold up your piece like shown in the photo above— bringing both ends to the middle and overlapping them, with the ribbed side on the under side, because you will flip it inside out once it’s sewn and will want the ribbed side on the outside. You will want the middle overlapped part to be in the very center.

Make sure to overlap in the middle only just up to the top of the ribbing, like shown in the photo above. You can pin your pillow together on the sides, to keep it from shifting around while you sew.

Then using a long piece of yarn and yarn needle, sew along the very edge of the two open sides using a whip stitch. When you sew the middle part that is overlapped be sure to include all the layers when sewing— very important! Then you can weave in all ends.

Once your pillow is sewn, flip it right side out. Now you’re ready to sew on your buttons. How I attached each button was by going one at a time and aligning the button with each button hole to where it should be placed on the under piece.

After all buttons are sewn on, you can stuff in your pillow insert, button up the center and you’ve got yourself a cozy little sweater just for your pillow! Teehee.

I really really love this pillow pattern… Dare I say it’s my new favorite?! I love the simplicity and the durability of it. And those buttons are the perfect touch…

If you make one of these bad boys yourself, be sure to tag me over on Instagram. I’d love to admire! Thanks for following along with my makes, and I hope you have a great weekend!

-Meg

Free Crochet Pattern for the Textured Boho Cowl

I'm bringing back an oldie - the Textured Boho Cowl to the blog this week.

This cowl was one of the very first patterns I created when I started Megmade with Love. So it's pretty special to me. It's only been available for sale in my shop, but I've decided to add it to the blog!

This cowl can be dressed up or down. It's just so great! I love the way it pairs with this comfy cardi and distressed shorts.

Or even a nice button-up and heels! Love love it.

I even made the cowl using scraps of yarn I had leftover! 

What you'll need:
-one 250 yard skein of worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft)
-size US H hook
-large tapestry needle
-three large buttons (3/4 - 1 inch)
-sewing thread and needle to sew buttons

Dimensions:
Finished cowl, un-sewed is approximately 30 x 8 inches

Gauge:
15 stitches and 8 rows equals a 4 inch square in double crochet

Abbreviations:
ch=chain, fdc=foundation double crochet, dc=double crochet, fpdc=front post double crochet, bpdc=back post double crochet, sc=single crochet, bo=bobble stitch ps=puff stitch st(s)=stitches rep=repeat yo=yarn over

Stitch Explanations:
bobble stitch: 1)yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. 2) In the same stitch repeat the previous step three times, you should have five loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all five loops

puff stitch: 1) yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch 2)Repeat the previous step three times- you will have nine loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all nine loops

Notes:
ch's at the beginning of the rows do not count as sts

Pattern:
1) work 103 fdc (I did this because it's quicker! You could always chain 105, then dc into 3rd ch from hook and across) (103 total sts)
2) ch 1, turn, *sc in first fdc, fpdc in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sc
3) ch 1, turn, *sc in first st, bpdc in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sc
4) ch 1, turn, sc across row
5) ch 3, turn, *bo st, sc in next st, rep from * across row ending with a bo st
6) ch 2, turn, dc across row
7) turn, *ch 4, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, rep from * across row
8) turn, *ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from previous row, rep from * across row
9) ch 3, turn, *dc into the sts(dc sts) in row 6 (working all dc into row 6 - this creates a raised texture out of rows 7 & 8. Rows 7 & 8 will not be worked into- they are "decorative")
10) ch 2, turn, dc across row
11) Rep step 10
12) ch 3, turn, *ps, ch 1, sk next st, rep from * to end
13) ch 2, turn, dc across row
14) ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *ch 1, sk the next two stitches, work 2 dc into next stitch, rep from * across, work ONE dc into the last st
15) ch 2, turn, dc, *dc into “hole” from previous row created by chain, dc into next two stitches, repeat from * across, working one dc in the last dc from previous row
16) ch 1, turn, sc across row
17) ch 5, turn, sk two sts, dc in next st, *ch 2, sk next two sts, dc in next st, rep from * across
18) ch 2, turn, dc into the sts (sc sts) from step 16, across (you are creating the raised texture like in row 9, this means that row 17 will not be worked into)
19) rep step 5
20-21) ch 2, turn, dc across row

Finish off and weave in ends

Fringe: for each fringe group piece, cut four 8-inch pieces of yarn. Fold them in half.

Every inch or so, on the long edge of the cowl: draw the group of yarn pieces through the last row with your crochet hook, but not all the way through. 

Then put all the end pieces through the loop to make a knot then pull tightly to finish.

Another option for the edging would be to add tassels. You can see how to make tassels by clicking here. 

To finish and join the cowl, you will begin by folding the scarf one side over the other, aligning the short side of with the bottom of the long side. See above and below photos.

Then you will secure the two ends (I did this with my crochet hook- you could also use pins) I also mapped out where the buttons would go and double-checked if they would fit into my stitches.

Then you will sew your buttons onto the BOTTOM side of your cowl (underneath the top fold).

Something I decided to do with the other side of the cowl was to join the top and bottom parts at the spot specified in the above photo by sewing back and forth a couple of times. This was so it would shift around. But if you'd like to be able to unbutton and unfold the cowl, you shouldn't join.

At last, you've got a cozy new cowl. Texture-y goodness and all.

Hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you end up making one of your own, I'd love to see! Tag me over on Instagram. :)

Happy making,
Meg