Free Crochet Pattern for the Textured Boho Cowl

I'm bringing back an oldie - the Textured Boho Cowl to the blog this week.

This cowl was one of the very first patterns I created when I started Megmade with Love. So it's pretty special to me. It's only been available for sale in my shop, but I've decided to add it to the blog!

This cowl can be dressed up or down. It's just so great! I love the way it pairs with this comfy cardi and distressed shorts.

Or even a nice button-up and heels! Love love it.

I even made the cowl using scraps of yarn I had leftover! 

What you'll need:
-one 250 yard skein of worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft)
-size US H hook
-large tapestry needle
-three large buttons (3/4 - 1 inch)
-sewing thread and needle to sew buttons

Dimensions:
Finished cowl, un-sewed is approximately 30 x 8 inches

Gauge:
15 stitches and 8 rows equals a 4 inch square in double crochet

Abbreviations:
ch=chain, fdc=foundation double crochet, dc=double crochet, fpdc=front post double crochet, bpdc=back post double crochet, sc=single crochet, bo=bobble stitch ps=puff stitch st(s)=stitches rep=repeat yo=yarn over

Stitch Explanations:
bobble stitch: 1)yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook. 2) In the same stitch repeat the previous step three times, you should have five loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all five loops

puff stitch: 1) yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch 2)Repeat the previous step three times- you will have nine loops on the hook. 3) Yarn over and pull through all nine loops

Notes:
ch's at the beginning of the rows do not count as sts

Pattern:
1) work 103 fdc (I did this because it's quicker! You could always chain 105, then dc into 3rd ch from hook and across) (103 total sts)
2) ch 1, turn, *sc in first fdc, fpdc in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sc
3) ch 1, turn, *sc in first st, bpdc in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sc
4) ch 1, turn, sc across row
5) ch 3, turn, *bo st, sc in next st, rep from * across row ending with a bo st
6) ch 2, turn, dc across row
7) turn, *ch 4, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, rep from * across row
8) turn, *ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from previous row, rep from * across row
9) ch 3, turn, *dc into the sts(dc sts) in row 6 (working all dc into row 6 - this creates a raised texture out of rows 7 & 8. Rows 7 & 8 will not be worked into- they are "decorative")
10) ch 2, turn, dc across row
11) Rep step 10
12) ch 3, turn, *ps, ch 1, sk next st, rep from * to end
13) ch 2, turn, dc across row
14) ch 2, turn, dc in first stitch, *ch 1, sk the next two stitches, work 2 dc into next stitch, rep from * across, work ONE dc into the last st
15) ch 2, turn, dc, *dc into “hole” from previous row created by chain, dc into next two stitches, repeat from * across, working one dc in the last dc from previous row
16) ch 1, turn, sc across row
17) ch 5, turn, sk two sts, dc in next st, *ch 2, sk next two sts, dc in next st, rep from * across
18) ch 2, turn, dc into the sts (sc sts) from step 16, across (you are creating the raised texture like in row 9, this means that row 17 will not be worked into)
19) rep step 5
20-21) ch 2, turn, dc across row

Finish off and weave in ends

Fringe: for each fringe group piece, cut four 8-inch pieces of yarn. Fold them in half.

Every inch or so, on the long edge of the cowl: draw the group of yarn pieces through the last row with your crochet hook, but not all the way through. 

Then put all the end pieces through the loop to make a knot then pull tightly to finish.

Another option for the edging would be to add tassels. You can see how to make tassels by clicking here. 

To finish and join the cowl, you will begin by folding the scarf one side over the other, aligning the short side of with the bottom of the long side. See above and below photos.

Then you will secure the two ends (I did this with my crochet hook- you could also use pins) I also mapped out where the buttons would go and double-checked if they would fit into my stitches.

Then you will sew your buttons onto the BOTTOM side of your cowl (underneath the top fold).

Something I decided to do with the other side of the cowl was to join the top and bottom parts at the spot specified in the above photo by sewing back and forth a couple of times. This was so it would shift around. But if you'd like to be able to unbutton and unfold the cowl, you shouldn't join.

At last, you've got a cozy new cowl. Texture-y goodness and all.

Hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you end up making one of your own, I'd love to see! Tag me over on Instagram. :)

Happy making,
Meg

Free Crochet Pattern for The Homebody Sweater (Easy, Comfy and Cute!)

***You can find the PDF version of this pattern in my Etsy shop by clicking here. Great for easy printing!***

It's September now, and in my head... that. means. fall.

And fall equals comfy sweaters, warm yummy drinks and awesome weather. I'm pumped. And no, I don't care if it's 90 degrees outside. NOTHIN'S GONNA BREAK MY STRIDE. ...ha!

Today I have an incredibly special design for you... 

I've written my very first sweater pattern, and I've called it "The Homebody Sweater".

Let me tell ya, it's already gotten great use in my home. It's so so comfy. The drape and casual-ness of it is just, ugh... the best!! 

It goes great with:
-bed head (lol)
-lazy Saturdays
-evenings spent watching Netflix and crocheting
-leggings

But of course, it wears great outside the house! Pair it with some jean shorts and converse for a cute, relaxed outfit. :)

This sweater makes a great "beginner sweater" for someone who hasn't made apparel yet. Trust me when I say-- it is so EASY! Basically the whole sweater is made up of hdc!

It's designed to fit "oversized", so you can feel extra comfy in it. 

What you'll need:
-DK (Category 3) weight yarn (1,000-1,100 yards for small, 1,100-1,200 yards for medium, 1,200-1,300 yards for large-- varies about 100 yards per size if using custom notes for sizing) I used Baby Bee Soft Delight in Flannel Marled
-Size K Hook (6.5 mm)
-Yarn needle
-Sewing pins

Abbreviations:
ch=chain, st(s)=stitch(es), hdc=half double crochet, BLO=back loop only, 2hdc=work two half double crochet in one stitch, sp=space

Gauge:
13 hdc by 11 rows equals a four-inch square

Notes:
-I wrote the pattern for sizes small through large. I will also provide additional notes for customizing the sweater to your specific preferences or size.

Measurements for the sweater sizes:
(remember, the sweater is designed to be “oversized” and a little slouchy/big)
SMALL: 19.75” wide (on one side)
MEDIUM: 21.5” wide (on one side)
LARGE: 23.25” wide (on one side)
*All sizes are 23.5 inches long (from shoulder to  bottom)

-If you wanted to customize the width of your sweater, you can add or take away about an inch to the width by adding or subtracting 2 rows on the bottom ribbing. This will obviously throw off stitch counts when you follow the pattern so be aware of that.

-If you wanted to add length to your sweater, you can simply add rows before you increase in row 35.

-If you wanted to add length to your sleeve, just add rows, or take away for shorter sleeves. I designed the sleeves to be cuffed & cozy, hitting a little below the elbow

-If you wanted to increase the width of your sleeve, you can sew up less rows on the sides when attaching the two pieces together- making a shorter seam. 

**Size instructions in pattern will be (S, M, L)

***I updated the pattern for the size LARGE because I had miscalculated the amount of stitches being worked into the bottom ribbing. It should have been 78 stitches instead NOT 76. Please forgive me for this!! :(

-Chains at beginning of rows do not count as stitch

Pattern:

Body of the sweater (make two):
Ribbing:
1) ch 12, in 3rd ch from hook, hdc and across (10 total sts, and for the remaining rows of ribbing)
2) ch 2, turn, hdc in BLO across row
3) ch 2, turn, hdc across row
FOR SMALL: Repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately until you have 44 total rows total
FOR MEDIUM: Repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately until you have 48 rows total
FOR LARGE: Repeat rows 2 & 3 alternately until you have 52 rows total

Working the body:
**Now you will be working on the SIDE of your ribbing, going down the left side from where your hook left off on the last row of your ribbing. When I say “sp” I am meaning the end of one of the vertical rows of the ribbing. See the photo below for where those stitches will be worked**

1) ch 2, work 2hdc into first sp, hdc into next sp, {2hdc into next sp, hdc into next sp} repeat {} until the end of your row (66, 72, 78)
2-34) ch 2, turn, hdc across row (66, 72, 78)
35) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc in 64, 70, 76 sts, 2hdc (68, 74, 80)
36) ch 2, turn, hdc across (68, 74, 80)
37) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc in 66, 72, 78 sts, 2hdc (70, 76, 82)
38) ch 2, turn, hdc across (70, 76, 82)
39) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc in 68, 74, 80 sts, 2hdc (72, 78, 84)
40) ch 2, turn, hdc across (72, 78, 84)
41) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc in 70, 76, 82 sts, 2hdc (74, 80, 86)
42) ch 2, turn, hdc across (74, 80, 86)
43) ch 2, turn, 2hdc, hdc in 72, 78, 84 sts, 2hdc (76, 82, 88)
44-56) ch 2, hdc across (76, 82, 88)
Fasten off

Sewing the pieces together:
After you’ve made two body pieces, you will lay them both right sides together, and sew with yarn needle and yarn. You can pin them together with sewing pins for assistance. You will be sewing on the very edges of your pieces.

For the top, sew the pieces together starting on the outside edge. I sewed along the top coming in 20 sts (I counted using the last row). this was about 7 inches in. You could customize how big of a neck opening you would like by taking away or adding to your sewing.

Then sew the sides, starting on the bottom at row 1 of the body, above the ribbing (the ribbing is not included in the seam).
For SMALL sew up through row 34.
For MEDIUM sew up through row 33.
For LARGE sew up through row 32.
(For additional assistance on when to stop sewing, use a st marker for what row you should stop sewing at.)

For the sleeves, you will begin by drawing your yarn right on the top seam, then ch 2. (follow the same instructions for both sides)

For SMALL:
1) work a hdc into the same sp you drew up your yarn (the seam), then work one hdc into the end space of each row of your body piece until you reach the side seam. Now, since you sewed up through the 34th row, you will have 22 rows for the sleeve on each body piece. So you will have 22 hdc, plus the one you put in the top seam. After you made 22 hdc into all the end spaces, work a hdc into the side seam sp, and then 22 more hdc into the other side of your sleeve hole, then join to your first hdc with a sl st. (46 total sts)
2-30) ch 2, hdc around, join to first hdc  (46) Finish off and weave in ends! You’ve got yourself a new comfy sweater!

For MEDIUM:
1) work one hdc into the same sp you drew up your yarn (the seam), then work one hdc into the end space of each row of your body piece until you reach the side seam. Now, since you sewed up through the 33rd row, you will have 23 rows for the sleeve on each body piece. So you will have 23 hdc, plus the one you put in the top seam. After you made 23 hdc into all the end spaces, work a hdc into the side seam sp, and then 23 more hdc into the other side of your sleeve hole, then join to your first hdc with a sl st. (48 total sts)
2-30) ch 2, hdc around, join to first hdc  (48) Finish off and weave in ends! You’ve got yourself a new comfy sweater!

For LARGE:
1) work one hdc into the same sp you drew up your yarn (the seam), then work one hdc into the end space of each row of your body piece until you reach the side seam (Now, since you sewed up through the 32nd row, you will have 24 rows for the sleeve on each body piece. So you will have 24 hdc, plus the one you put in the top seam). After you made 24 hdc into all the end spaces, work a hdc into the side seam sp, and then 24 more hdc into the other side of your sleeve hole, then join to your first hdc with a sl st. (50 total sts)
2-30) ch 2, hdc around, join to first hdc  (50) Finish off and weave in ends! You’ve got yourself a new comfy sweater!

And that's it! I just know you're going to love this sweater. I hope you LOVE it! And if you have any questions whatsoever with it, feel free to ask in the comments below.

If you complete your sweater... tag me over on Instagram. I would so love to see it!

As always, happy making,
Meg